An extraordinary feature of the Tonlé Sap River is that is changes direction of flow depending on the seasonal weather. This is remarkable in so much that the Tonlé Sap is a huge river being about 500 m wide at Phnom Penh. In the dry season (Dec – Apr) the water flows from Lake Tonlé Sap down 100 km of the Tonlé Sap River to its confluence with the Mekong River at Phnom Penh. During the wet season (May – Oct) the level of the Mekong River rises so much that the water builds up in the Tonlé Sap and then starts flowing back ‘upstream’ to refill the lake!
After breakfast we commenced a six hour road trip to the Tatai River heading south-west out of Phnom Penh on highway #4. Along the highway it was distressing to see the incredible piles of rubbish just dumped everywhere. Plastic bags together with polystyrene foam cups and bowls seemed to be the main litter items. Garbage bins are practically non existent!
Motorbike transporting bar fridge, Phnom Penh
On highway #4 the traffic coming in towards the capital city was phenomenal with many of the vehicles being large container trucks bringing in freight from the sea-port near Sihanoukville. The attempts by on-coming cars to overtake meant that our driver was forced to take evasive action on a good number of occasions.
At Kaaong we diverted to highway #48 although the term ‘highway’ was not really appropriate.
The countryside now became much more rural with rice, bananas, rubber, pomelo, cashews, durian and melons being the main produce. Where there were flat bitumen surfaces rather than dusty potholed sections, many of the farmers had their rice drying on the side of the road and sometimes even encroaching into the lanes where cars were travelling.
The rural setting also meant that a new problem on the road was that of wandering cattle that seemed unperturbed by vehicles weaving in amongst them.
We stopped for a coffee and comfort break at a small roadside town near Chikha on highway #48. At the coffee shop we were astounded to find amongst other things, pasties, so-called ‘Aussie’ meat pies, Schweppes tonic and three rubbish bins, one even catering for recyclables!
The shop also had some wines and spirits for sale and Gordon’s Gin was US$15 per litre and some single malt Scotch whiskies were around US$25.
The road then became steeper as we entered the Koh Kong province which is on the south-western edge of the Cardamom Mountains region.
After a winding, undulating last half-hour of travel we arrived in the small village of Ta Tai Kraom at the Tatai River crossing where a long boat from the Four Rivers Lodge was awaiting us.
With all our possessions loaded aboard, we then motored southwards downstream for about thirty minutes to reach the Four Rivers Floating Lodge.
Boat to Four Rivers Floating Lodge, Cardamom Mountains
Local boats en route to Four Rivers Floating Lodge, Cardamom Mountains
This eco lodge is committed to sustainable tourism and protecting the natural beauty and wildlife that surrounds it.
Our accommodation is in one of twelve spacious floating units right on the Tatai River’s edge. The units are constructed with heavy-duty canvas walls and roof, insect proof mesh windows and timbered floors. Our bedroom and bathroom are well appointed and we have a riverside deck with a ladder as a swimming entry and exit point.
Our room, Four Rivers Floating Lodge
Our bathroom, Four Rivers Floating Lodge
We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon in the sun on our deck and then had pre-dinner drinks. Dinner in the Lodge’s restaurant was excellent and by 20:00 we were all feeling pretty tired after a day of mostly travel.
Sunset drinks, Four Rivers Floating Lodge
Tomorrow we have a day to explore this wilderness region or to just do nothing as at present we have no formal commitments or planned activities.