After saying farewell to the staff at Sultan’s Inn we loaded the bus with our bags and headed north-westwards towards Maraza.
Group with driver Ilqar departing Baku
The landscape was for the first 50km was barren and desertlike with no trees and very sparse vegetation.
As we ventured further north we then entered a completely different agricultural environment with cattle, sheep, grain crops (mostly wheat), grape vines plus walnut and almond groves.
Countryside departing Baku en route to Sheki
Agriculture
We then made a stop at the Diri Baba mausoleum near the village of Maraza.
This mausoleum was built in 1402 by order of Shirvanshah Ibrahim I.
It is regarded as a very significant holy pilgrimage site and was an important location for travellers on the Silk Road. The internal walls of the tomb are adorned with geometrical figures and ancient Islamic text. Nearby, a number of small caves were to be found but these lacked information on their religious or historical significance.
Adjacent to the mausoleum was an Islamic cemetery with tombstones so weather worn one can only imagine that they too belong to the fifteenth century. Bright red poppies featured in amongst these ancient graves.
We then drove to Shamakha (Samaxi) to visit the historical Juma Mosque. This is the second oldest mosque in the Caucasus although it has been largely rebuilt. It was originally built in 743 but suffered major structural damage in the earthquakes of 1859 and 1902. During the March genocide of 1918 Armenian Nationalists set the mosque on fire and many hundreds of worshippers trapped inside were killed. The reconstruction of the mosque was completed in 2013. The ‘new’ structure is very impressive although there’s very little visible evidence of the 8th century mosque remaining.
Juma Mosque, Shamakha (Samaxi)
Corinne, Janet & Diana, Juma Mosque, Shamakha (Samaxi)
Inside Juma Mosque
On a hillside overlooking the Shamakha Grand Mosque is the mausoleum of Yeddi Gumbez with its seven domed tombs two of which have collapsed. These domes enclose the burial grounds of prominent members of the family of Shirvanshah Shahs from around the 15th century. The tombstones inside the five remaining domes are colourful with the fine details of writing and symbols remarkably well preserved.
Mausoleum of Yeddi Gumbez
Mausoleum of Yeddi Gumbez
We then had a very long drive for nearly two hours to Lahic. On the way we stopped for traditional herb crepes cooked on a roadside hot plate heated by firewood and then enjoyed a brew of the local tea.
Our next interlude was at the Zervana suspension bridge where a quick trip across the bridge and back provided an entertaining opportunity too stretch the legs as icy glacial waters cascaded down the Girdimanchay River way below us.
Corinne & Tony on Zervana suspension bridge over Girdimanchay River, en route to Lahic
Zervana suspension bridge over Girdimanchay River, en route to Lahic
Our road to Lahic then wound its way through a spectacular canyon following the river along a narrow road perched precariously 50m or more above the river. The geology of the mountains was incredible with vast vertical rock walls towering above the road. Up ahead we would see high snow covered peaks letting us know that we are now definitely in the Caucasus!
Road to Lahic
In Lahic we followed Huseynov Kuc (Coppersmith Street) which is the main pedestrian street for visiting tourists.
This street is paved with shiny smooth river-stones and lined with older houses built traditionally with interleaving stone and timber layers plus box windows.
Coppersmiths exhibit their wares up and down the street and several of the workshops are accessible where one finds traditional tools and museum-like antiques amongst a dusty and ancient world of artisans.
Paved street in Lahic
Workshops in Lahic
Locals in Lahic
The day ended with a further two hour drive to Sheki with us arriving at our Macara Hotel at 20:30.
Sunset en route to Sheki
We had a meal in the hotel’s main dining room and headed off for some well earned rest after a long day of travel and sight-seeing.
Particular credit should go to our driver Ilqar who drove about 350km today and showed great skill at all times especially on the potentially dangerous road to Lahic.
Our route from Baku to Sheki
Tomorrow we’ll spend a more relaxing day in and around Sheki. Sadly it will be our final full day in Azerbaijan.