The day started with an early 06:30 breakfast and after checking out of the Hilton Hotel we were on the road heading for Pokhara by 07:30.
The drive from Kathmandu to Pokhara of about 250 km takes approximately eight hours as the road conditions are subject to major roadworks for much of the way. Even at the comparatively early morning time the traffic in western Kathmandu was very dense and Om, our amazing driver coped remarkably well with numerous trucks, cars, buses and motor bikes moving all around us in seemingly random pathways. The only road rule one suspects is that you give way to the driver who is pushing in front of you!
The Prithvi Highway roadworks seemed to be occurring on at least half the journey and the surface in these areas was often so rough and potholed that a maximum speed of 10 – 15 km/h or less was essential.
Road from Kathmandu to Charaudi
Roadworks on road from Kathmandu to Charaudi
The first 40 km was still semi-suburban with the roadside homes, shops and business places being typically three storey buildings ofter with drab appearance and minimal architectural character.
The amount of litter along the roadside is seriously distressing and gives evidence that there is no formal garbage collection service operating outside the main Kathmandu city precinct.
After an hour’s travel it started to rain heavily with a sudden monsoonal downpour and the road changed from being incredibly rough to now being rough, muddy and very slippery. Our driver did a remarkable job of negotiating the traffic with extraordinarily difficult driving conditions as sections of the road were so narrow that passing on-coming trucks and buses left no leeway for error.
When we reached Charaudi (Fishling) we stopped and with the rain abating we were introduced to our rafting guide who would take us on our journey down the Trisuli River.
We changed into bathers, shorts and t-shirts and were finally kitted out with waterproof jackets, life jackets and helmets. With paddles in hand we then walked 100 m down a narrow, uneven concrete stepped pathway and then crossed over slippery stones to reach the Trisuli River’s edge.
Diana, Frances, Jak, Corinne & Chris ready for rafting, Charaudi,
Preparing for rafting down the Trisuli River
After a short but adequate briefing we climbed aboard our eight person raft and headed off. Our senior guide and his very capable assistant called paddling instructions whenever required.
Our guides, rafting down the Trisuli River
We travelled 12 km downstream over a period of about two hours in mostly sunshine and balmy conditions. On our journey we encountered rapids every kilometre or so and most were not overly active but we did have three or four highly turbulent descents where waves came right over the bow of the raft and Chris and Jak were totally drenched!
Rafting down the Trisuli River
Along the river path we passed several excavators digging stones and rock from the river bank and loading it into trucks; presumably for the roadworks occurring on the Prithvi Highway.
Excavators on banks of Trisuli River
There were some periods of serenity when we drifted slowly through calm waters with high rock walls forming the river bank with attractive forest foliage forming a backdrop.
We also passed a group of army trainees who were doing a rafting exercise as part of their training. They play a key role during the monsoonal times of July/August when the raging Trisuli River is four metres higher and rescuing stranded people living along the river verges often has to carried out.
Army trainees on bank of Trisuli River
When we reached Manakamana we pulled into the river bank and alighted after two hours of most enjoyable fun plus plenty of paddling exercise.
We changed back into dry clothes and had lunch in a restaurant overlooking the river.
We then had a further two hours of driving to reach our evening’s destination of Pokhara. On the way we had glimpses ahead of the Himalayan peaks including Annapurna which hopefully we may see more clearly tomorrow; fingers crossed!
We arrived at the Temple Tree Resort which will be our accommodation for the next two nights and after drinks we had our evening meals poolside and headed to our rooms to prepare for a 04:45 start tomorrow morning when new commence our exploration of Pokhara.