Today’s itinerary meant that we would finish activities a little earlier as we have to prepare for transferring to Pokhara tomorrow and this involves a nine hour drive.
After breakfast Om drove us through the chaotic early morning traffic to Pashupatinath situated about 5 km east of Kathmandu city centre. Pashupatinath temple is one of the most sacred Hindu temples dedicated to Lord Shiva who is both the creator and destroyer. Shiva, the “Great God” or “Lord of the Beasts” is usually represented as a light skinned man with a blue throat, five faces, four arms and three eyes. He typically holds a trident and his vehicle is the bull, the ancient symbol of fecundity.
On arrival at the site, we commenced a slow paced stroll along the banks of the sacred Bagmati River which was lined with little shops selling trinkets and the usual tourist items including lots of brass ‘healing bowls’ we’d learnt about yesterday. Particularly common were women with multi-coloured powder paints wanting to paint ‘bindis’ on tourist foreheads. The term bindi comes from the Sanskrit word ‘bindu’ meaning point or dot.
Stall with powder for bindis
Bagmati River, Pashupatinath
There were a number of bare chested ‘holy men’ sitting squat legged on the concrete path below us and they were offering ritual blessings to families particularly those have their loved ones cremated. Each had several copper bowls containing oils, flower petals (marigolds) and other mysterious objects.
Holy men on banks of Bagmati River, Pashupatinath
We followed along the elevated pathway adjacent to the river as we approached the temple precinct. We as non-Hindus were not permitted to enter the large, gilded triple roofed temple which apparently was built in 1696.
Temple, Pashupatinath
Further along on the other side of the Bagmati River we could numerous dharmsalas or pilgrim resthouses and cremation ghats. These riverside platforms are also used for bathing access and ritual cleansing although the level of pollution in the Bagmati River looked as if this was unlikely to occur physically!
Bathing platforms on banks of Bagmati River
There were several cremations in progress as we strolled along the river bank and the amount of wood smoke in the air was quite stifling. The bodies are burnt which takes three to four hours and then the ashes are scattered in the river which is holy as the Bagmati River eventually flows into the sacred Ganges.
Cremation in progress
Cremation in progress
Cremation in progress
The tradition of ‘sati’ when wives burned themselves alive on their husband’s funeral pyre has not been permitted since the early 20th century.
At the point where we were closest to the temple, we encountered two large bulls which seemed used to tourists although one was unhappy about being photographed and swung his big horned head around to express his displeasure.
We returned to our bus and then drove to the Boudhanath Stupa which is 8 km east of Kathmandu city.
Boudhanath Stupa
Boudhanath is the largest stupa in whole of Nepal and is closely associated with the 16,000 Tibetan community now living in Nepal. Boudhanath is now one of the most flourishing centres of Tibetan Buddhism in the world and this area offers an insight into Tibetan culture.
The stupa has a huge white dome surmounted by the all-seeing eyes of the primordial Buddha. The dome is based on concentric ascending terraces and around the base is a ring of 108 images of Buddhist deities and 147 insets containing prayer wheels.
The area surrounding the stupa is full of activity with pilgrims praying, busy souvenir shops and numerous monks in their maroon garbs accompanied by Tibetan music emanating from the surrounding buildings. As is tradition, walking around the stupa should always be in the clockwise direction.
Boudhanath
We then returned to our hotel and said farewell to our guide Om who has been friendly and knowledgeable ever prepared to answer our many questions over these last three days.
Bus, taxi & motorbike ransport in Kathmandu
Corinne and Sue then went shopping in Thamel hoping to find pashminas, scarves and balls of cashmere wool but were only able to find yak wool and Australian wool.
Tomorrow we leave Kathmandu and head westwards to Pokhara which involves a long nine hour drive and enroute we are to participate in white-water rafting on the Trisuli river.