This morning, it was nice for a change to be not rushing and to be able to have a leisurely breakfast session and enjoy the Ranthambore Heritage Haveli setting with its delightful gardens and lawns.
At 09:30 we left Ranthambore National Park and were soon on the main highway north towards Jaipur.
Even at 10:00 the temperature outside was in the high 30s and we could see the locals predominantly seeking cover in roadside cafes and under canvas awnings. Few seemed to be involved in any physical labour. Even the Brahman cattle that mingle with the cars, motorbikes and food stalls seemed to find the conditions oppressive.
We spent about half an hour visiting a ‘Women’s Craft Centre’ in Ranthambore where the goods on sale have been largely made by local women and women control the sales and general functioning of the co-operative. The quality of dresses, materials and rugs was exceptional and the same can be said for the water colour paintings, many of which were unsurprisingly of tigers.
Women's craft centre Ranthambhore
Staff saying farewell, Women's Craft Centre, Ranthambhore
For the next two hours we continued on the expressway through flat, parched agricultural country looking like it’s desperately awaiting the summer rains due in late June.
Despite the drought conditions the farms looked well maintained with much of the land presently under fallow. Where there were plantations, the dominant preoccupation seemed to be growing guava. There were hundreds upon hundreds of hectares of guava orchards which we were told will be in maximum production by early new-year through to late February.
Guava orchard
A very common sight, particularly in these farming areas is to see many Massey-Ferguson tractors (models 1035 and 241). At one point on our travels two days ago, we went past a dealership of Massey-Ferguson tractors and there must have been 100 shiny red new tractors in their sales yard.
Whilst still in the eastern part of the province of Rajasthan our travels then took a slight detour from the main road towards the little township of Abhaneri.
The purpose of this diversion was to visit the Chand Baori Stepwell and what an extraordinary surprise were we to experience!
Abhaneri, which means ‘city of brightness’ is now in ruins with much of the Hindu Temples and ancient buildings now in pieces like a yet to be solved jig-saw puzzle.
However, it’s the Chand Baori Stepwell that attracts tourists from across the world and we were very soon to see why. On entering, the scene before us was mind boggling. The three-dimensional geometric spectre can best be described as exquisite.
Our first view of Chand Baori Stepwell
The Chand Baori Stepwell was built by King Chanda Raja during the 8th and 9th centuries AD to harvest sufficient rainwater to last throughout the year particularly as this region of Rajasthan is subject to severe droughts during winter and spring.
The structure has 3,500 narrow steps arranged in perfect symmetry with 13 levels which descend 20 m to the bottom of the well making it India’s deepest and largest stepwell. The steps form a magical maze and the consequent play of light and shadow give the stepwell an utterly captivating appeal.
Steps, Chand Baori Stepwell
The stairs encircle the central water well on three sides while the fourth side has a three storey pavilion with galleries supported on pillars and two projecting balconies enshrining beautiful sculptures.
Chand Baori Stepwell
Stairs encircling central water well, Chand Baori Stepwell
Fisheye view of Chand Baori Stepwell
Chand Baori Stepwell
These days the well is not used as a reservoir anymore but this 1300 year old Indian treasure has featured in a number of movies including Hollywood productions such as one of the Batman films.
Just across the road from the stepwell is the Harshat Mata Temple built at the same time as Chand Baori in the 8th century AD.
Harshad Mata Temple Camus, Abhaneri,
This Hindu Temple was dedicated to Harshat Mata the goddess of happiness and joy who spread her glow and brightness to all who visited the temple.
The temple is architecturally splendid and sculpturally beautiful despite the fact that it was partially destroyed and damaged during the horrific raid by the Afghan sultan Mahmud Ghanaian.
Carvings on Harshad Mata Temple Camus
Many of the Harshat Mata Temple’s pillars, columns and statues now lie scattered around the temple courtyard and associated corridors.
Some of Mata Temple’s pillars, columns and statues now lie scattered around the temple courtyard
It is thought that the original temple was built as a main shrine surrounded by four subsidiary shrines but now only parts of the main shrine survive. The now existing roof dome was thought to have been a later structure replacing a tall central tower called a ‘shikara’.
The temple is now protected by the Archeological Survey of India and remains in Hindu religious use.
At around 14:00 and the temperature at 42C we had a lunch break at a nearby restaurant in air-conditioned comfort and then continued for a further 95 km to Jaipur where we’re staying at the Ramada Hotel.
Aagman Restaurant
Tomorrow is our final full ‘touristy’ day in India and during the day we intend to visit this so called ‘Pink City’ and see a number of its attractions.