We were up well before dawn and in our jeep heading off on safari by 05:45.

Sunrise, Jeep safari, Ranthambore National Park

The road from our Ranthambore Heritage Haveli out to the main road is about a kilometre of rocky, sandy track that winds its way in amongst the now deciduous thorn bushes. On the way out, we spotted kingfishers, little green bee-eaters, drongos and several other non-identified species.

Once on the main road we drove back through Ranthambore township where evidence of poverty and over-population are sadly, all too clear.

After half an hour or so we left the main road and turned off into one of the entrances to the Ranthambore National Park.

The Ranthambore National Park is amongst the largest national parks in northern India covering and area of 392 square kilometres. It is internationally famous as a wildlife park and especially for sighting the illusive and nocturnal Bengali tiger and the even rarer leopard.

Our initial travels were through thorn bush scrub where blue, samba and spotted deer were photographed. A number of peacocks and peahens were seen but the beautiful golden orioles were the birds gaining most of our attention.

Blue deer (Boselaphus tragocamelus) - female

Our meanderings along dusty and bumpy tracks were proving to be fruitless and then the track was blocked by a fallen tree which meant a change in the safari plan.

Guides & drivers discussing plan B given the tree across the track

We retraced our path and then accessed the national park via another entrance that led to a more mountainous region. We reached a high point overlooking a small stream in the deep valley below. In this parched environment the best chance of seeing a tiger or leopard would most likely be near access to water.

Our vehicles parked at the top of the hill

The gully where it is likely to see a tiger or leopard

As we descended, our guide heard a distinct ‘distress’ or warning call from a samba deer suggesting a major predator was somewhere nearby.

We initially caught a glimpse of a large male leopard behind thorn bushes down by the shaded stream. He then began moving along the water course and then sat still.

Through the undergrowth we obtained semi-reasonable photos at this point but the leopard then came even closer and crossed the road immediately behind our jeep. As we’d experienced in Botswana, this magnificent predator seemed to be completely unperturbed by our presence. Our cameras worked overtime!

Despite not seeing a tiger this morning, our guide stressed that leopards are ‘ten-times’ rarer sightings in the Ranthambore National Park so we should not be too disappointed.

At 08:30 we returned to our hotel for a hearty breakfast knowing that we have free time until 15:30 this afternoon before we head off on jeep safari journey number two.

White throated kingfisher (Halcyon smyrnensis), Ranthambhore Heritage Haveli

Spoiler alert: there were no tigers spotted during the afternoon safari.

There were only three of us for the afternoon safari as the 42C shade temperature meant that it would be very hot in the jeep with no overhead cover.

We had the same, very knowledgeable guide as this morning and a new driver who drove us further afield and deeper into the National Park than we’d ventured earlier in the day.

Despite the intense heat there were a surprising number of birds and animals sighted along the park’s 4WD tracks.

We saw large numbers of samba and spotted deer gathered around small water holes and we were lucky enough to get photos of the rarer India blue ‘bull’ or nilgai (Boselaphus tragocamelus) which is also a member of the deer family.

India blue ‘bull’ or nilgai (Boselaphus tragocamelus)

At a nearby shallow lake we photographed (or attempted to photograph) at least ten different species of birds. These included two different species of kingfishers, herons, lapwings, drongos, paradise flycatchers, thick-knees, bee-eaters, bulbuls, peacocks, coucals, cormorants, quails and oriels…..

Red wattled lapwing (Vanellus indicus indicus)

Despite our pre-occupation with bird photography, just nearby a family of wild pigs entered the water and spent a minute or two cooling off before scurrying away into the thorn bush undergrowth.

We spent some time watching an extended family of gray langur monkeys put on an acrobatics display involving rapid tree climbing, aerial jumps, back-flips and prehensile tail tricks.

Most intriguingly, a pair of pied kingfishers performed for us right next to the jeep. They’d take it in turns to leave the nearby tree and then hover over the pond right next to the jeep before doing a dramatic dive into the pond to catch a small fish. This cycle recurred a number of times and was fascinating to watch the skilful performances.

Woolly-neck storks (Ciconia episcopus) in nest

There was momentary sighting of a sloth bear but by the time we’d moved closer to its last seen position, it was no longer visible because of being hidden by thick bushes. Our disappointment was later alleviated when the bear decided to venture down to the nearly dried up river bed for the few traces of water. We then spent a considerable time photographing the sloth bear, albeit from a fair distance.

Sloth bear (Melursus ursinus), with drongo

An alarm call from a samba deer gave us the clue that either a tiger or leopard was in the immediate vicinity. We, together with three other jeeps waited patiently as sunset approached but to no avail. After about thirty minutes we decided that it was not to be our lucky tiger sighting day today.

Nonetheless, it had been a most interesting, entertaining and enjoyable safari afternoon and when we finally arrived back at our hotel at 19:30 we expressed much gratitude to our guide and his driver. Cold beers, G&Ts and a light evening meal provided an entirely desirable conclusion to a long and busy day.

Tomorrow we leave Ranthambore and drive northwards to Jaipur where we will spent our last two nights in India.

DAY 23: Friday 23rd May 2025 RANTHAMBORE; INDIA

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