Our driver Jagdish was waiting for us at 09:00 and we then began the tortuous drive to South Delhi, a distance of about 10 km but in the super heavy traffic the journey took over an hour.
Morning traffic, New Delhi
Motorbike with chooks in morning traffic
On arrival at the Mehrauli Archaeological Park in the south-western part of South Delhi we stopped and spent the next hour visiting the Qutb Complex; (Qutb also spelt Qutab).
This is regarded as one of the most spectacular sites in all of Delhi as it houses a number of historical buildings including the remains of the city’s oldest mosque.
However, the Qutb Complex is most famous for the Qutb Minar an impressive sandstone and marble victory tower which is 73 m high making it the tallest brick minaret in the world.
Qutb Minar
The founder of the Delhi Sultanate, Qutbuddin Aibak commenced the building of the complex in the 12th century and the two principal structures that remain are the Quwwat-ul-Islam (‘Might of Islam’) mosque and the Qutb Minar.
Quwwat-ul-Islam (‘Might of Islam’) mosque
Quwwat-ul-Islam (‘Might of Islam’) mosque
Both the mosque and the minaret are earliest examples of a synthesis of Hindu and Islamic architecture. In fact, some sections of the Quwwat-ul-Islam mosque were constructed from carved stone pillars retrieved from or possibly raided from an abandoned Hindu Temple. The intricacy and range of stone carvings on the mosque’s remaining walls, arches, ceilings and pillars is quite remarkable.
'Borrowed' Hindu pillars, Quwwat-ul-Islam (‘Might of Islam’) mosque
The five storey high Qutb Minar was completed in the reign of Aibak’s successor in the late 12th century and at some later stage there was an intention to build an even more impressive minaret but this plan was for some reason abandoned. All that remains of this intended giant minaret are the ruins of base section which is twice the diameter of Qutb Minar base!
Base for intended giant minaret
Nearby amidst the ruins of the Quwwat-ul-Islam Mosque stands the famous “Iron Pillar” which is over 1600 years old and seemingly immune to rusting. Analysis suggests that it was cast from pure ‘malleable’ iron with there being no hint of alloying. This particular iron pillar commonly features in chemistry textbooks in chapters on corrosion. The only explanation for the lack of corrosion must be the very dry atmosphere or, as we were told, the ingenuity of Indian metallurgists in the 5th century!
Jak beside Iron Pillar
Before departing this fascinating site we followed the perimeter alleyway towards the domed Alai Darwaza temple. The internal stonework of the dome comprised multicoloured stone rings around a central lotus flower.
Dome inside Qutb Complex
Still in South Delhi we then drove north-eastwards towards the Lotus Temple.
Unfortunately, it being Monday the temple was closed so our best efforts were to try taking photographs through the surrounding fence.
Bahai House of Worship (Lotus building)
This temple is the Baha’i House of worship, an ultra modern 34 m high building comprised of twenty seven marble ‘unfurling petals of a lotus flower’. The building was completed in 1986.
We were then given the opportunity of viewing items for sale in a high quality market. There was vast range of goods for sale with Kashmir sapphires as well as many other precious stones and silk rugs being very special and expensive options.
The day’s activities were now being affected by the heat as the temperature reached 38C. Our final destination for visiting was Humayun’s Tomb in Eastern Delhi.
Humayun’s Tomb complex
This magnificent tomb is the final resting place of Humayun who was the second Mughal emperor. The tomb rises spectacularly above the surrounding palm fringed gardens. Its design was presumed to be the inspiration for the impressive Taj Mahal which we hope to visit sometime tomorrow.
Humayun’s tomb was built between 1565 and 1572 by the Persian architect Mirak Mirza Ghiyas. The building houses the tombs of over 150 of Humayun’s Mughal family members.
The imposing white hemispherical marble dome is surmounted by a finial (ornamental terminal feature) with a crescent indicating the Persian architectural influence. The tomb’s exterior is principally red sandstone with marble inlay around multiple arches. Closer examination reveals the fine trellis work and geometric patterns carved into the sandstone walls.
At the very centre of Humayun’s Tomb, marking the emperor’s grave is a white marble sarcophagus set on a black and white marble platform. Directly above the sarcophagus is the inner dome of the dual domed structure.
White marble sarcophagus marking the emperor’s grave
Wandering around the tomb’s external plinth we noticed gleaming in the distance the white dome of the Sikh’s Temple. Adjacent to the Humayun’s Tomb in the same garden area is the Barber’s Tomb built in 1591. It is thought to be the resting pace of Humayun’s barber who was an important and trusted court official.
Barber’s Tomb adjacent to Humayun’s Tomb complex
By this stage at 14:00 we were suffering from the 38C heat and the long distances we’d walked in the hot sun, so a decision was made to finish the day’s activities at this point.
We said farewell to our Delhi guide Keshav then Jagdish drove us back to our hotel. We thanked both our guide and driver for making our visit to Delhi so interesting and informative.
Tomorrow we head south east for about four hour’s road journey with a new driver as we change location to Agra.