The city of Delhi with a population of just over 20 million can be conveniently divided into four distinct regions.
The most northern, oldest and smallest part is Old Delhi, situated on the banks of the Yamuna River.
Just south Old Delhi is the four times larger region of New Delhi which is more modern and was largely developed during the time of British rule. Between New Delhi and the Yamuna River to the east is the third region of Nizamuddin to Feroz. However, by far the largest region is South Delhi which has come about as numerous smaller cities have expanded over the last hundred years or so to overlap creating the present day metropolis.
Our plan for the day was to spend most of the time in Old Delhi. We were met by our Delhi guide and then driven in our comfortable eight-seater bus northwards for about an hour.
A significant portion of our travel time was through the military sector where for several kilometres we passed walled army grounds enhanced by large numbers of trees, especially the laburnums with their pendulous yellow flowers. We passed the India Gate, a striking arched memorial to soldiers who died in World War 1.
Laburnum trees
As we entered Old Delhi the scene changed dramatically when we encountered the market area. The population density on either side of the road was beyond imagination with shoulder to shoulder traders selling shoes, clothing, cheap jewellery and various household items. Often the wares were encroaching on the roadway and in one spot, in amongst a bundle of cheap clothing was a man asleep oblivious to the traffic passing close by.
Rickshaws in market area
Market area
Our first stop was at the Jama Masjid Mosque. This mosque was built on the orders of the Emperor Shah Jahan the architecturally eager Mughal ruler whose other famous commission was the Taj Mahal.
The grand Jama Masjid Mosque took six years and a force of 5000 workers to construct.
The mosque is an imposing sight with three large black and white marble domes and twin towering minarets framing its great central arch. The mosque was completed in 1656 and is India’s largest.
Jama Masjid mosque
Jama Masjid mosque with bathing pool in front
The internal sanctions of the mosque that we were allowed to see were made from predominantly red sandstone with many walls having intricate patterns of inlaid marble.
InsideJama Masjid mosque
There are three elaborate gates on three sides of the central courtyard with the one opposite the mosque, the ‘Royal Gate’ only to be used by the Emperor or government officials nowadays. On holy Fridays the courtyard can have up to 25,000 Muslims gathering for prayers.
Royal Gate, Jama Masjid mosque
We left the mosque and climbed into rickshaws and were peddled through the back street market area and eventually to Chandni Chowk one of the main streets through this section of Old Delhi. It’s a bustling market area regarded as the heart of the old town. This busy thoroughfare is lined with colourful markets and shrines.
Corinne & Jak on rickshaw
Chandri Chowk (moonlight street) on Sunday (most shops closed)
Chandri Chowk (moonlight street) on Sunday
As we went by in our rickshaw we photographed the distinctive towers of the Lal Mandir one of the most revered Jain temples in India.
Towers of Lal Mandir
Our ride terminated at The Red Fort.
Red sandstone embattlements give this imperial citadel its name Lal Quila or Red Fort.
Embattlement Wall of Lal Quila (Red Fort)
Commissioned by Shah Jahan in 1639 it took nine years to build and was the seat of Mughal power until 1857 when the last emperor was dethroned and exiled.
The high sandstone Fort wall encloses an area of about 250 hectares and in former times was surrounded by a moat. The internal area is open lawns and trees with several palatial buildings and pavilions. We were very impressed with the intricately carved sandstone arches and pillars of the Diwan-i-Aam and the Emperor’s massive canopied throne carved from marble.
Diwan-i-Am (Hall of public audience), Lal Quila (Red Fort)
Inside Diwan-i-Am (Hall of public audience), Lal Quila (Red Fort)
Emperor's throne, Diwan-i-Am (Hall of public audience)
Amongst the trees we encountered three or four Indian squirrels which hopped merrily across in front of us without concern.
Indian squirrel
Our final site to visit for the day was Raj Ghat the site of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation. It is regarded as the most revered symbol of Indian Nationalism.
Within a tranquil garden is a sombre black granite platform inscribed with Gandhi’s last words, Hey Ram (‘Oh God’).
Raj Ghat (the site of Mahatma Gandhi’s cremation)
This simple monument was covered with garlands of orange marigolds and behind the granite platform a flame burns eternally for the ‘Father of the Nation’. The garden setting takes on special prayer gatherings and ceremonies on the 2nd October commemorating Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday.
By this time of the day the temperature was climbing into the mid-thirties and we elected to head back to our hotel for cool showers and refreshments.
Our van outside the Radisson Hotel, New Delhi
It’s been a most interesting six hours in Old Delhi today and given us an opportunity of learning a little more about India’s history as well as seeing many, many Indians going about their everyday lives.
Tomorrow we spend much of our time visiting places in New Delhi.