During breakfast one of the waiters at Temple Tree Resort recommended that we venture to the resort’s third floor roof top viewing deck as the Himalayas were partly bathed in the early morning sunlight. We took photos of Machhapuchhre (Fishtail) and Annapurna peaks with a good deal of blue sky behind.
Machapuchare (Fishtail) from our resort, Temple Tree Resort and Spa, Pokhara
We departed Pokhara at 08:00 and our ever cheerful driver Om commenced our four hour’s travels south-eastwards towards Chitwan. As was the case with our route to Pokhara two day’s ago, the road we were on was also under reconstruction but about two-thirds was now complete. The first hour was through built up suburban areas but by nine o’clock we were passing through rural areas with the agriculture based upon water from the numerous rivers that follow the valleys southwards towards the great rivers such as the Brahmaputra and Ganges.
Damauli Bridge en route to Chitwan
Road under construction en route from Pokhara to Chitwan
Our road passed through the towns of Sisua and Tharpu and then followed the Madi River which we crossed over at Damauli. The road then wound its way along a steep rocky hillside to the dusty roadside village of Dumre and we then re-entered farmland until our coffee stop at Mugling. Mugling is a common rest and drinks stopping point as it marks about the halfway mark between Kathmandu and Pokhara. Close by to Mugling is the confluence of Darondi River and the outflow of the Trisuli Reservoir.
We had a pleasant coffee break in the shade of large mango and lychee trees. The gardens around the café had other citrus fruit trees and to Corinne’s delight a number of frangipani trees were in full flower.
Coffee bus at Mugling
Coffee stop at Mugling, Nepal, 8 May 2025
Confluence of rivers at Mugling
Our path then diverted to another highway and we drove about twenty kilometres towards Narayanghat following the Trisuli River which we’d rafted in two day’s earlier. The last major town before we reached our destination was the city of Bharatpur and the temperature was now approaching 40C.
Some of this road was though attractive forest but the river flats that then dominated the scene were serious agricultural cropping areas with maize, rice, tomatoes, vines and beans being plentiful. Some cactus crops and papaya plantations were noted too.
An interesting and yet common site along the way was for farmyards to have tall conical hay stacks centred around a wooden axis. Baling of hay crops does not seem to occur here.
Conical haystack
At about 13:00 we arrived at the Chitwan National Park where our accommodation is at the Barahi Jungle Lodge adjacent to the Rapti River.
After a welcome and cheerful introduction to the Lodge and procedures, we had a lunch break and were then shown to our rooms which are delightful with the river and jungle quite near to our window.
We had rest time before we were due to go on a safari tour at 16:45.
Our safari tour was by boat on the Rapti River starting from the Lodge and heading downstream for about an hour. The wooden boat could seat ten people on five cross-member seats and was propelled by a boatman using a cane pole which was long enough to touch the bottom in the comparatively shallow river waters.
At this point the Rapti River is about 100 m wide and having a slow downstream current meant we moved at a gentle pace apart from two narrower sections where the current was stronger.
Along the way we saw bird life including lapwings, numerous martins, egrets, white breasted kingfishers, giant herons, cormorants, bee-eaters and malibu storks. Others species were sighted but not identified as we were too distant from the river bank and moving continuously.
Kingfisher on log
Malibu stork
Cormorants
The most significant sightings were that of a large marsh mugger crocodile and a one horned rhinoceros.
Crocodile on bank of Rapti River
One horned rhinoceros
The rhinoceros is an endangered species and the male we encountered was partly submerged in the river with his head and prominent ears being clearly visible from quite a distance away. We managed to get quite close to the rhinoceros and it seemed unperturbed by our approach.
Our group disembarking from our boat, Rapti River
After an hour we went into the riverbank and alighted and then walked a short distance to where our Lodge staff had set up a tent and seating for ‘sundowners’. Drinks and nibbles were provided and we sat and chatted until after sunset which was disappointingly nondescript.
Sundowners by Rapti River
Sundowners, Rapti River
Sundowners, Rapti River
Sunset over Rapti River
We then returned to the Lodge by mini-bus and at 19:30 had the opportunity to watch dance performances by the local ethnic Tharu community.
There were a number of different dance routines performed in their traditional costumes and the vibrant dances depicted their culture, lifestyle and local environment.
Dance performances by the local ethnic Tharu community
Dance performances by the local ethnic Tharu community
To end the evening we had our evening meal down by the Rapti River bank. The meal was served in degustation style and by the ‘main’ course’s arrival we’d all had too much to eat and declined any further offerings apart from coffee.
Our group at dinner
At 22:00 we were offered a speedy motor buggy ride back top our room which is about 200 m from the resort centre.
Tomorrow we will visit the small village of the local Tharu ethnic group and in the afternoon go on a 4WD land safari.