After breakfast we drove about 20 km following up the Mo Chhu River valley to a spot on the river bank where several white-water rafting companies start their operations.
This was to be the starting point for our hike to the Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten. It was raining sufficiently to dampen not only our clothing but also our enthusiasm for the climb ahead.
With raincoats now on we headed off by firstly crossing the suspension bridge over the Mo Chhu river. The next four hundred metres of muddy track meandered amongst terraced fields growing chilies, maize, rice and cabbages. Having reached a sheltered area enclosing a large prayer wheel we then commenced a steady climb to the top. The track was narrow, slippery and quite uneven in most places until we were near the chorten where we went through a gateway and from there on the pathway was paved with interlocking flat stones.
Suspension bridge over the Mo Chhu River,
Hike to the Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
It took us about forty minutes to reach the temple, a total distance of 1.6 km and in so doing we’d gained 194 m in altitude.
The Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten is 30 m tall and took eight years to build. It was consecrated in 1999 and dedicated to the fifth king.
Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
Jakarandas, Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
Protector Avalokiteshvara
Its purpose is to protect Bhutan so it is veritably packed with every conceivable member of Bhutanese demonography including a four metre high bronze statue of the protector Avalokiteshvara the deity embodying Buddha’s compassion. Many of the demons are covered with flames and have contorted faces as if in abject pain.
The rain had stopped and we climbed to the third floor rooftop of the chorten and although the atmosphere was a little misty we had an expansive view below us of the Mo Chhu valley and its rich agricultural fields.
View from the top of Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
View from the top of Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
The walk back down to the river was treacherous due to the slippery clay surface following the rain we’d just had this morning.
Path to Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
Descending from Khamsen Yuelley Namgyal Chorten
During the descent we spotted, along the side of the track a number of flowering turmeric plants. The flower has delicate waxy white petals with purple tips. It is a member of the ginger family and the powder is obtained from the tumeric’s underground rhizomes or tubers.
Tumeric plant
About 6 km south of Punakha we peeled off the main road and commenced a long climb (in the bus) to the Sangchen Dorji Lhendrub Choling Nunnery. This is a Buddhist college for 120 resident anim (nuns) which was financed by the fourth king’s father in law!
Sangchen Dorji Lhendrub Choling Nunnery
The central feature is a large stupa or chorten and adjacent is a temple with various Buddhist statues of gods most being covered in gold.
Stupa, Sangchen Dorji Lhendrub Choling Nunnery
The nuns have shaved heads and wear maroon habits making their appearance so similar the the male monks.
The nunnery has a large surrounding garden in which there are twelve or so small stupas representing the different architectural styles and corresponding religious significance.
After a late lunch we made a brief visit to a site, 17 km south of Punakha where we could observe the Wangdue Phodang’s Dzong (fortress) atop a strategic ridge. It was founded in 1644 and gave the penlop (leader) of Wangdue Phodrang at that time a very strong strategic military position.
Bridg to, Wangdue Phodang’s Dzong
Wangdue Phodang’s Dzong
The dzong burnt to the ground in June 2012 as it had done in 1837 and the present day rebuilding only finished in 2022.
Bridge to Wangdue Phodang’s Dzong
We then returned to our Lobesa Boutique Hotel at around 16:30 for opportunities to catch up on diaries, washing and some well earned rest after a day involving a good deal of climbing and exertion.