Watch this space for our upcoming trip to Sri Lanka

We are about to embark on a photographic expedition to Sri Lanka, travelling with a group of friends whom we originally met on the Trans Siberian trip 12 year ago.

Our itinerary is quite varied and includes visits to national parks, a scenic train ride, a few days around the cultural triangle, time in the tea growing area, a homestay, a cooking session, visits to local villages, some time to relax…. all with camera(s) in hand.

Watch this space to follow our adventures although updates may be spasmodic depending on access to the internet.

Best of Lanka tour map.jpg

DAY 1: Saturday June 1st 2019 MELBOURNE – COLOMBO

The first day of winter was to transform to the first day of summer but in the interim we had over twenty hours of travel to undertake firstly.

Having spent Friday night with Marcus, Deb and family we said our farewells bright and early on a cool and grey Saturday morning ushering in the winter season.  We returned our hire car to Apex and checked in for our mid-day flight to Sri Lanka via Singapore.

Before boarding, we purchased some Sri Lankan currency at a rate of around 91 LKR (SL rupees) to the Aussie $. This, we were assured was an appropriate conversion rate but it turned out to be significantly below that available in Sri Lanka as we later found at the Colombo airport. C’est la vie!

The seven and a half hour flight to Singapore was on a Qantas Airbus A380 which must have been close to its capacity of 484 passengers. As luck would have it, one of the very few unoccupied seats was a window seat right next to us so we had three seats thus enabling us to spread out a bit. The lunch/dinner menu pamphlet provided for Qantas passengers featured a scene from the Bridestowe lavender farm showing four or five curved rows with some obvious signs of frost damage but at least no weeds were evident.

The flight was uneventful although on approaching Singapore we were required to circle for about 40 minutes due to excessive air traffic coming into Changi Airport.

Our transiting through Singapore involved changing from Qantas to Sri Lankan Airways which meant that we had to catch the Sky Train to get from Terminal 1 to Terminal 3. It was just as well that we had over two hours available before our next flight as we had a lot of walking to do even after the train transfer.

The flight to Sri Lanka in an Airbus A321 took just over three and a half hours and had us at Colombo’s Bandaranaike Airport. Mrs. Sirimavo Bandaranaike is well remembered as being the world’s first female Prime Minister. She succeeded her Prime Minister husband who was assassinated by a Buddhist monk in 1959.

Security was very obviously at a maximum and yet immigration was a mere formality with practically no queue. Our on-line purchased visas were readily accepted and having collected our bags (yes they arrived!) soon we were out in the bus area looking for our mini-bus driver Nihal. He was waiting dutifully and greeted us with orchid leis and a very cheerful smile.

The drive from the airport to Colombo city took about 45 minutes and the majority of the travel was on a four lane, elevated concrete motorway built by the Chinese; an occurrence which seems to be par for the course these days.

The motorway ended at the northern outskirts of Colombo and then the roads and streets became more like our expectations of Asian metropolises. There was the tangle of cars, buses, tuk-tuks and pedestrians on poorly lit roads and streets.

Being a former British colony, Sri Lankans drive on the left side of the road although some drive where there’s a space. The use of indicators appears to be optional for many.  

We were stopped for police checks twice before arriving at our Galle Face Hotel which is right on the edge of the Indian Ocean.

Hotel security was very thorough with our car being checked out with mirrors underneath  and a sniffer dog checking our luggage plus the normal airport type electronic/metal detector checks.

We checked into our hotel which exudes an atmosphere of old-world British architectural charm. Our very spacious and tastefully decorated room has a high ceiling, wooden cupboards and old fashioned wooden window frames with antique brass fittings.

It’s been twenty hours since we left Preston this morning and sleep is on the high priority list. After some quick showers we headed for bed after a day of travel where everything had gone very much to plan.

Tomorrow we catch up with our other seven travelling colleagues and commence the “Best of Lanka” itinerary.

DAY 2: Sunday June 2nd 2019 COLOMBO

With our internal time-clocks being in a state of disarray, we arose at 06:00 and after a leisurely start did some washing, started on the diary and then headed for breakfast where we met up with Frances who’d arrived yesterday afternoon.

The Galle Face Hotel was built in 1846 and although it’s been somewhat modernised it retains its colonial splendour with the Victorian charm of large paintings covering the walls within a huge mahogany stairwell. There are wooden sculpted elephants and other animals and display cases featuring artefacts from the 19th century era. The whole feeling is that of a museum and one feels that W. Somerset Maugham will be around the next corner smoking from a long cigarette holder.

Jak & Frances, Galle Face Hotel

Jak & Frances, Galle Face Hotel

In the mid-morning we strolled along the waterfront towards the Fort area which has many buildings of historical interest encompassing times from the Portuguese, Dutch and British occupation periods. 

Promenade looking back to Galle Face Hotel

Promenade looking back to Galle Face Hotel

Promenade looking towards reclaimed area

Promenade looking towards reclaimed area

The sea was rough with quite large waves breaking against the embankment throwing spray onto the pedestrian walkway. The water was churned up and very muddy and looked anything but enticing as a swimming location. The amount of plastic waste in the water was also a cause for great concern.

The Chinese government is presently involved in a massive project in the reclamation of a big section of the waterfront area for future use as wharves and container storage. Vast amounts of sand and gravel have been dredged from the surrounding ocean floor and brought in to create a reclaimed area of about 25 hectares.

As we strolled along we were continually approached by tuk-tuk drivers wishing to show us the local sights for a comparatively cheap price. We preferred to walk and do our own sight seeing using a map provided by our hotel. Then the skies opened up and for a brief period it poured with rain and in the quarter hour of downpour we managed to get pretty wet.

We returned to the hotel, dried off and waited for sunshine and this time caught a tuk-tuk to the Fort part of town.

The buildings in this area are either old colonial structures or multi-storey high rise office blocks. A number of the old buildings are in need of restoration although many of the government buildings such as the Parliament, Town Hall, National Museum and the Dutch Hospital are elegant and architecturally impressive.

Dutch Hospital

Dutch Hospital

Waves on Promenade at Galle Face Green, Colombo

Waves on Promenade at Galle Face Green, Colombo

Galle Face Green & Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Galle Face Green & Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

By early afternoon our whole group of nine had now gathered. This group of travelling friends first met up twelve years ago when we all spent six weeks crossing Asia on the Trans-Siberian Railway. We have subsequently had trips together along the Silk Road, Ethiopia, Jordan, Hungary, the Balkans, Myanmar, Laos and Cambodia. A close and delightful friendship has thus developed over these past years.

Our group meeting with Nipun from Best of Lanka, Galle Face Hotel

Our group meeting with Nipun from Best of Lanka, Galle Face Hotel

As our afternoon’s activity we had a four hour guided tour of Colombo travelling in the back of three old army jeeps. Our friendly drivers gave an interesting commentary along the way and cold drinks were provided to add to the merriment of this open-air travel in warm sunshine

Group boarding jeeps, Galle Face Hotel

Group boarding jeeps, Galle Face Hotel

We stopped off at various locations to take in the scenery and the harbour view from the fourth floor deck of the Grand Oriental Hotel was amongst the more memorable.

The jeeps being open top vehicles meant that we were visible to the public as we journeyed through the Colombo streets. Many people waved and smiled as the jeeps wangled their way through the high density traffic which seemed to be utterly chaotic. Numerous low speed “near-misses” were experienced especially as tuk-tuks weaved in amongst the cars and pedestrians. After sunset the situation was exacerbated due to the generally low level of street lighting.

Our group on jeep city tour

Our group on jeep city tour

We viewed old churches, mosques, light houses, pagodas and arenas before leaving the streets and venturing along a dirt track adjacent to a bird sanctuary. This was a bit of a disappointment although pied and azure kingfishers were seen fleetingly as well as two or three species of herons. A small crocodile was seen in the distance asleep on the muddy river bank.

Our group at Aththidiya Bird Sanctuary

Our group at Aththidiya Bird Sanctuary

We returned to the hotel at around 19:00 and after our evening meal all headed for bed as tomorrow we move on to Habarana some five hours away.

DAY 3: Monday June 3rd 2019 COLOMBO - HABARANA

We had an early breakfast as the intention was to be on the road by 08:00.

Before leaving our Galle Face Hotel we spent some time in the photographic gallery that displays photographs of many of the famous guests who have stayed at the hotel over the years.

The collection reads like a ‘who’s who’ of prominent authors, royalty, musicians, politicians and film stars. Amongst the names of authors that were displayed were Chekov, D.H. Lawrence, Conan Doyle, Somerset Maugham and Evelyn Waugh. Other names that caused interest included Noel Coward, Gertrude Bell, Che Guevara, President Tito, Mountbatten, Cole Porter, Dave Brubeck and Sting.

Bar, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Bar, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Staircase, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

Staircase, Galle Face Hotel, Colombo

The bus we have is spacious and modern with a driver and an assistant driver in addition to our guide.

Apart from two short stops along the way, the five hour trip from Colombo to Habarana entailed a nearly continuous drive through high density urban settings with roadside shops and small businesses on both sides of the road. Needless to say the traffic was dense and at times the overtaking by some vehicles looked exceedingly dangerous although everyone seems used to this style of driving.  

Shops en route from Colombo to Habarana

Shops en route from Colombo to Habarana

Building en route from Colombo to Habarana

Building en route from Colombo to Habarana

Some shopping sections seemed to specialise in specific goods and as an example we drove for several kilometres and the shops were practically all selling ceramic goods such as tiles, hand basins and toilets. Other districts were prominent for the selling of auto and motorbike spares and others for basket-ware or fruits.

We arrived at Habarana at around 14:30 and checked into our Cinnamon Lodge Hotel. Our accommodation is very impressive and in an expansive garden setting with manicured parklands and a lake to add to the splendour. We were informed that there are around 100 different bird species that have been recorded in these environs. 

At 15:00 our group headed for the Minneriya National Park; our transport being two elderly open top Landcruiser and Landrover vehicles that were from the 1980s and had been set up for safari type tours. 

Our jeeps, Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Our jeeps, Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Jak & Corinne in jeep, Minneriya National Park

Jak & Corinne in jeep, Minneriya National Park

Janet, Frances, Sinclair & Janet, Minneriya National Park

Janet, Frances, Sinclair & Janet, Minneriya National Park

The drive though the Minneriya National Park was on a rough 4WD road and after half an hour or so we eventually came to a lake surrounded by expansive grasslands where thirty or so elephants were grazing. These elephants were predominantly females with their calves. Various herds gather in this region between June and August to feed on the lush grass growing in the area around the lake where the water level has subsided. The Indian elephants are smaller than African elephants and have smaller ears, a relatively flat back and a single ‘finger’ at the end of their trunk whereas the African has two. These fingers are for grasping food. Only a few male Indian elephants have tusks.

Elephant herd, Minneriya National Park

Elephant herd, Minneriya National Park

Elephants, Minneriya National Park

Elephants, Minneriya National Park

Elephant, Minneriya National Park

Elephant, Minneriya National Park

As well as the very healthy herds of elephants we sighted many birds although some were difficult to approach adequately for good photographs. Amongst the birds we saw were fish eagles, bee-eaters, kingfishers, storks, herons, pelicans, stilts and lapwings. Other animals sighted included two jackals and a monitor lizard.

Little bee-eater Minneriya National Park

Little bee-eater Minneriya National Park

Kingfisher, Minneriya National Park

Kingfisher, Minneriya National Park

Stilt, Minneriya National Park

Stilt, Minneriya National Park

Banded plover, Minneriya National Park

Banded plover, Minneriya National Park

Jackal, Minneriya National Park

Jackal, Minneriya National Park

Water monitor, Minneriya National Park

Water monitor, Minneriya National Park

We returned to our hotel and had a buffet style evening meal before adjourning for the night.

Tomorrow we have an early 06:15 start as we are to visit Polonnaruwa which is a UNESCO world heritage site!

DAY 4: Tuesday June 4th 2019 HABARANA & POLONNARUWA

We left our hotel at just after 06:15 and we were driven in our bus to Polonnaruwa which is about 45 km south-east of Habarana and within the so-called Cultural Triangle of Sri Lanka.

The road was very busy with heavy traffic in both directions. Many buses were in operation presumably transporting people to work and children to school. The school uniforms seem to be predominantly white for boys and girls and the many students we saw were very smartly presented as they queued for the buses. An interesting observation of the school students indicates that girls prefer to have long plaited hair. Of the hundreds of schoolgirls seen this morning only one did not have long plaits! 

When we arrived at Polonnaruwa we had a quick snack from our individual breakfast boxes provided by the Cinnamon Lodge Hotel.

Our first activity was to join a local guide (Sunil) and stroll through the local parklands and observe the species of primates that frequent this region. Along the way we encountered some interesting bird-life too. A pair of red-capped woodpeckers were busy in a tree above us and we managed to get some photos of these beautiful birds before they scurried. We also saw two species of barbits, namely the brown headed and the copper-smith barbit. 

Red capped woodpecker, Polonnaruwa

Red capped woodpecker, Polonnaruwa

Lizard, Polonnaruwa

Lizard, Polonnaruwa

Brown-headed barbit, Polonnaruwa

Brown-headed barbit, Polonnaruwa

Our local guide and his associate are employed as part of an international research programme investigating the primates of Sri Lanka. The research was initiated by a German biologist over 50 years ago and the information gathered during this time has provided a valuable insight into primate behaviour. 

Torque macaque mothers & babies, Polonnaruwa

Torque macaque mothers & babies, Polonnaruwa

We observed at close range torque macaques and a number of the females were transporting babies that were clinging to their mother’s underside. As well as macaques we encountered grey langur monkeys as well as purple-faced langur monkeys.

Grey langur (male) Polonnaruwa

Grey langur (male) Polonnaruwa

Grey langur (male) Polonnaruwa

Grey langur (male) Polonnaruwa

Group with Sihal (our guide for monkey tour), Polonnaruwa

Group with Sihal (our guide for monkey tour), Polonnaruwa

Torque macaque, Polonnaruwa

Torque macaque, Polonnaruwa

Torque macaque, Polonnaruwa

Torque macaque, Polonnaruwa

Grey langur, Polonnaruwa

Grey langur, Polonnaruwa

Purple-faced langur, Polonnaruwa

Purple-faced langur, Polonnaruwa

At this stage of the day the mid-morning temperature was around 32°C and the humidity quite oppressive. Not surprisingly, most of the birds and other animals including the primates had sensibly sought cooler regions such as high within the tree foliage.

After a brief rest and rehydration, we moved to our next activity; inspecting the 900 year old Polonnaruwa ruins. These ruins are of the city of the Sinhalese Kingdom established by King Vijayabahu 1 in the early 11thcentury. 

Ruins of the city of the Sinhalese Kingdom, Polonnaruwa

Ruins of the city of the Sinhalese Kingdom, Polonnaruwa

Ruins of the city of the Sinhalese Kingdom, Polonnaruwa

Ruins of the city of the Sinhalese Kingdom, Polonnaruwa

We started at the Royal Palace Group ruins where apparently a seven storey brick building originally existed. All that remains now are two high (2 storey) brick walls and some stairs. The vast palace had to accommodate the king and his three wives plus his 300 concubines and the king’s children.

The nearby Council Hall originally had a terracotta roof but now all that remains is an elaborately decorated raised terrace with a few columns. The decorations are of dwarfs (little people), lions and elephants. 

Council Hall, Polonnaruwa

Council Hall, Polonnaruwa

Stone book, Polonnaruwa

Stone book, Polonnaruwa

We then moved to the Quadrangle which is regarded as a highlight of a visit to the Polonnaruwa ruins because of its sacred monuments. The central monument is the Vatadage that at one stage housed Buddha’s tooth relic said to be now in Kandy. The relic house comprises a central dagoba on a raised terrace. Surrounding the terrace is a brick wall with entrances at each of the cardinal points leading up steps to Buddha statues.

Vatagada, Polonnaruwa

Vatagada, Polonnaruwa

Hetagada, Polonnaruwa

Hetagada, Polonnaruwa

Another impressive sight at the Quadrangle is the Stone Book. This is a single piece of inscribed rectangular sandstone about 15 m long, 1 m wide and 30 cm thick. It was transported to this site from a quarry 130 km away. Apparently elephants and logs as rollers were used to achieve this extraordinary feat.

We then visited the Rankot Vihara which is the fourth largest dagoba (stupa) in Sri Lanka but as it was so hot we declined the opportunity of doing the full circumnavigation of this impressive 50 m high structure.

Our group at Stupa, Polonnaruwa

Our group at Stupa, Polonnaruwa

Our enthusiasm for Buddhist monuments was fading a little but with it being the finale for the morning we trudged off in the heat to Gal Vihara and we weren’t disappointed.

This is a shrine consisting of four beautiful Buddha statues carved out of a single granite hillside (a mini Abu Simbel?). The main attraction here is the reclining Buddha with the polished granite carving being exquisite. There are also two other seated Buddhas and one in a standing pose.

Reclining Buddha at Galviharaya, Polonnaruwa

Reclining Buddha at Galviharaya, Polonnaruwa

We then returned to our hotel for showers, rest and an opportunity to prepare for more action later in the day. 

Our unit (upstairs) at Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Our unit (upstairs) at Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

At 16:30 the two 4WD vehicles that we’d used yesterday arrived and the chief driver reported that there’d been a slight change of plan to the itinerary. Now the plan was to do a drive tour through forest and wetlands and no longer to climb the “rock outcrop” for sun-downers. This change of plan was due to rising water levels making access to the rock very difficult.

Our drive was along forest roads and around wetlands adjacent to a large lake. There were quite a few birds sighted but mostly at a distance. The kingfishers we saw were very shy and disappeared as soon as we approached. 

Just before sunset we arrived at a pre-determined location to find trestle tables set up with drinks and snacks right at the edge of the lake.

Sundowners, Habarana

Sundowners, Habarana

Warner with bottle of Arrack for sundowners, Habarana

Warner with bottle of Arrack for sundowners, Habarana

Lion beer for sundowners, Habarana

Lion beer for sundowners, Habarana

We had a very enjoyable hour sitting, chatting and reminiscing of the day’s activities and the wonderful hospitality shown by the Sri Lankans.

We are very conscious of the fact that we’re amongst the very first tourists back to Sri Lanka since the Easter bombings. Many locals have said to us that they are suffering desperately from a lack of business and are delighted to see our presence as a hint of things returning to normality.

DAY 5: Wednesday June 5th 2019 HABARANA & SIGIRIYA

We had the luxury of a relaxed start this morning with breakfast at 07:00 and the morning’s sight seeing activities not commencing until after 08:00.

Our local guide Warner and his assistant driver arrived with the two off-road vehicles and we headed off in the general direction of Sigiriya along a narrow gravel road. There were small land holdings adjacent to the road with typical rural houses in various states of completion. Land is acquired from the government on a ninety-nine year lease basis although prospective lessees are required to have a reasonable financial status before being accepted. Some of houses were painted bright pink and a number had circular motifs painted on their front walls supposedly to ward off evil spirits. 

Village house, near Habarana

Village house, near Habarana

Motif on village house, near Habarana

Motif on village house, near Habarana

It being the dry season means that rainwater tanks are mostly empty so water has to be collected from communal wells. Hand pumps are used to bring up the water and then it is carried on the head or by wheelbarrow back to the home. We were informed that one lady we saw carrying water had about a kilometre to travel for water collection.

Woman pumping water, near Habarana

Woman pumping water, near Habarana

As there were many trees along the roadside we kept looking for bird life and amongst the species seen were white-throated kingfishers, black robins, yellow billed babblers, emerald doves, fish eagles and a single (female) paradise flycatcher.

Asian Paradise flycatcher, near Habarana

Asian Paradise flycatcher, near Habarana

White-throated kingfisher, near Habarana

White-throated kingfisher, near Habarana

Yellow-billed babbler, near Habarana

Yellow-billed babbler, near Habarana

Indian black robin, near Habarana

Indian black robin, near Habarana

Many of the farms are involved in rice growing although at this time of the year the rice paddies are dusty dry! However, when the rice crop is reaching maturity, farmers have to be wary of elephants coming in and eating/destroying their harvest. To overcome this problem they have tree huts set up in key places around the paddies so they can scare off the elephants using fire-crackers. The rice farmers spend their nights being vigilant in the tree huts.

Watch tower for elephants, near Habarana

Watch tower for elephants, near Habarana

An ancient wooden cart pulled by two bullocks was an interesting sight and the owner seemed very pleased to see our desire to get photos of his wagon and cattle.

Farmer with ox cart, near Habarana

Farmer with ox cart, near Habarana

We then passed a community farm where women were planting out onion seedlings. A man without facial protection was spraying the seedlings with a hand-pumped spray can. 

Onion farm, near Habarana

Onion farm, near Habarana

Women going to plant onions at onion farm, near Habarana

Women going to plant onions at onion farm, near Habarana

We saw some houses that had been built from mud. The mud used is often from termite mounds as this has strong cementing properties. The house owners tend to keep the areas around their houses swept because a build up of leaves provides an ideal cover for snakes, some such as the cobra being exceedingly venomous.  

Mud brick house, near Habarana

Mud brick house, near Habarana

Woman sweeping yard, near Habarana

Woman sweeping yard, near Habarana

Village woman, near Habarana

Village woman, near Habarana

Along the road were a number of fruit trees and the ones we noted were mango, lime, wood apple and jack-fruit.

A highlight of the morning was to see the Sigiriya Rock although we didn’t do the climb to the 200 m high top.

Sigiriya Rock, Sigiriya

Sigiriya Rock, Sigiriya

This giant gneiss rock has at its top an ancient citadel built as an impregnable fortress by King Kasyapa in the mid fifth century. The ruins at the summit were discovered by British archaeologists in the early twentieth century. The summit has an area of around two hectares and was once covered with buildings but now only foundations remain. The stairway leading to the summit is exceedingly steep in parts so we were told. We could see people climbing near the summit and they appeared like ants against this massive monolith. The Sigiriya Rock location has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1982.

Around the base of the rock we visited ruins associated with the kingdom. There was a 7th century stupa but much of its upper section had been destroyed. Nearby were the remains of the Chapter House which looks a little like a mini Stonehenge. The large granite pillars are the ruins of a large building used to house the king’s guards that patrolled the level below the rock. 

Stupa, Sigiriya

Stupa, Sigiriya

Chapter house, Sigiriya

Chapter house, Sigiriya

Moon stone & elephant guard stones at Chapter House, Sigiriya

Moon stone & elephant guard stones at Chapter House, Sigiriya

Apart from the rock providing an impregnable fortress, there was a moat around the base of the rock with crocodiles to further discourage intending invaders. 

Moat around palace, Sigiriya

Moat around palace, Sigiriya

We then adjourned for lunch at Warner’s home. The lunch was a typical Sri Lankan meal with rice, chicken and an assortment of plain and curried vegetables. It was a very tasty repast and the hospitality shown by Warner and his family was delightful.   

Lunch at Warner's house, near Habarana

Lunch at Warner's house, near Habarana

We returned to the Cinnamon Lodge Hotel at 13:00 and had a quiet afternoon in preparation for a big day of travel and sight seeing tomorrow.

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Swimming pool, Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Swimming pool, Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Pre dinner drinks, Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

Pre dinner drinks, Cinnamon Lodge, Habarana

DAY 6: Thursday June 6th 2019 HABARANA - KANDY

After an excellent breakfast next to the pool we said farewell to the staff at the Cinnamon Lodge Hotel and boarded our bus for the trip south to Kandy. The Cinnamon Lodge Hotel is most impressive in regards to its surrounding parklands, the standard of accommodation and the quality of meals and service. It’s just so sad to see this very large and spacious hotel practically empty, a consequence of many cancellations following the Easter bombings. We wished the management good fortune and our sincere hope that tourists will return before too long. The consequence of this drastic downturn in business is ultimately that staff may have to be laid off.

On the120 km bus trip southwards several stops were planned, the first being at the Dambulla Cave Temples.

Dambulla Cave Temple, Dumbullla

Dambulla Cave Temple, Dumbullla

At this UNESCO World Heritage Site there are five cave temples that are carved out of a huge granite outcrop that towers 100 m above Dambulla town. 

We had a fairly steep walk up to the entrance and a local guide then showed us through the temple complex. 

The temples within the caves date back to the second century BC when King Valagambuha sought refuge after being exiled. When he regained his throne some fourteen years later he converted the caves into Buddhist temples in gratitude to the monks who had offered him sanctuary.

Reclining buddha, Dambulla Cave Temple

Reclining buddha, Dambulla Cave Temple

Buddhas, Dambulla Cave Temple

Buddhas, Dambulla Cave Temple

The temple complex comprises five separate caves each of which we visited. The caves are filled with dozens of statues of Buddha but statues of kings and Buddha’s loyal disciples such as Ananda are present too. Buddha is represented in various sizes and poses (mudras) and the walls and ceilings are adorned with paintings depicting religious and secular themes. The colours and images in some cases have faded very significantly which is not surprising as many are from 200 BC. In the small cave IV which is presently undergoing restoration there is a central dagoba or stupa which was broken into by thieves thinking that it contained the jewels of Queen Somawathie wife of King Valagambuha. 

Door, Dambulla Cave Temple

Door, Dambulla Cave Temple

Fresco, Dambulla Cave Temple

Fresco, Dambulla Cave Temple

Fresco, Dambulla Cave Temple

Fresco, Dambulla Cave Temple

We were particularly impressed with the massive solid doors to each of the temples. One large door was made from a single piece of timber about 150 mm thick and reputed to be over 700 years old!

Outside the temple on the main terrace area there are excellent views over the surrounding countryside and we were fortunate to have a crystal clear day enabling us to see as far as Sigirya, the massive rock citadel that we’d visited yesterday.  

Our next stop on the way south was supposed to be at the Tamil/Hindu Temple in Matale but due to a misunderstanding, our guide thought that no one was interested in seeing this temple and we bypassed it.

We then visited a spice and herb garden where we had an informative local guide who told us about the growing, preparation and uses for a number of spices. Amongst the ones of particular interest that we saw growing were ginger, vanilla, pepper, cocoa, coffee, cinnamon, turmeric, cumin and nutmeg.

Pineapple, Spice & herb garden, en route to Kandy

Pineapple, Spice & herb garden, en route to Kandy

Pepper, Spice & herb garden, en route to Kandy

Pepper, Spice & herb garden, en route to Kandy

Jack fruit, Spice & herb garden, en route to Kandy

Jack fruit, Spice & herb garden, en route to Kandy

At the end of our visit we were ushered into an adjacent covered area and given a fairly heavy duty sales pitch before being directed into the shop where a vast array of spices and herbal remedies and other such ayurvedic products were on sale. Some members of our group had soothing shoulder and leg massages with local herbal and spice preparations to enhance the effect.

At lunchtime we arrived in Kandy, the second biggest city in Sri Lanka. After a light luncheon we moved to our home-stay accommodation at the Thotupola Residence where the rooms are clean, comfy and have private bathrooms.

At 16:00 we were driven to a nearby hotel where, for over an hour we watched local dancers perform traditional dances in elaborate costumes. The choreography was high energy with the male and female performers exhibiting phenomenal agility and endurance. The drummers were particularly impressive with their timing and rhythmic accompaniment. All the dances had a traditional and often mystical theme and we were provided with notes to explain the significance of the activity. 

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

Our group at Culture show, Kandy

Our group at Culture show, Kandy

The routine concluded with dances being performed outside in the hotel driveway with two male dancers juggling fire-sticks and fire ‘eating’. The highlight and finale had these two walking and dancing along a two metre fire trail.

620 - Culture show, Kandy, Sri Lanka, 6 Jun 2019-9.jpg
Culture show, Kandy

Culture show, Kandy

621 - Culture show, Kandy, Sri Lanka, 6 Jun 2019-10.jpg

We then returned to our home-stay location for a pleasant evening meal prepared by our host family.

Tomorrow we spend most of the day in and around Kandy.

DAY 7: Friday June 7th 2019 KANDY

Kandy is located practically at the centre of Sri Lanka in the Hill Country famous for its tea growing. It is also renowned for being the home to the famous Temple of the Tooth but our group decided that we’d had sufficient exposure to Buddhist relics in Myanmar and decided upon other pursuits.

Kandy is a vibrant, bustling and seemingly over crowded city and it serves as a major government and general administrative centre for much of Sri Lanka. 

Another claim to fame is Kandy’s heavy involvement in the production of fine jewellery, a direct consequence of the nearby mining for precious and semi-precious gemstones. Sri Lanka is famous for its moonstones, blue sapphires, rubies, cat’s eyes and zircons.  

We had breakfast at our home-stay on an open terrace overlooking the Mahaweli River which is the longest river in Sri Lanka. Our rooms are on the left bank of the river and during breakfast we watched men on rafts collecting sand from the river floor. They use improvised pontoons made from 200 L fuel drums lashed together and they scoop up river sand using long bamboo poles. The washed river sand is prized for cement and mortar production.

Men collecting sand on Mahaweli River, Kandy

Men collecting sand on Mahaweli River, Kandy

After breakfast we drove to a local market area where the crowd and bus traffic was super high density making the crossing of the road a challenge of some proportion.

At the market we met Rukshana (Ruki) who was to be our chef for preparing lunch today. She took us to the inner sanctum of the market where the smells of vegetables, spices, dried fish, raw meat and other such delights provided an olfactory extravaganza.

Spice stall at local market, Kandy

Spice stall at local market, Kandy

Fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Under Rukshana’s supervision we purchased an interesting array of vegetables, spices and chicken meat. There were several types of vegetables we’d never seen before. There were at least three types of aubergines on sale and snake gourds. Strange looking tubers were on sale too and although we thought they were a variant potato we were later informed that the flesh was sweet and used in desserts.

Rukshana making purchases at fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Rukshana making purchases at fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Snake gourds at local market, Kandy

Snake gourds at local market, Kandy

Loofahs at local market, Kandy

Loofahs at local market, Kandy

Fish stall at local market, Kandy

Fish stall at local market, Kandy

Rice stall at local market, Kandy

Rice stall at local market, Kandy

Mr Hanlffa, Stall keeper at local market, Kandy

Mr Hanlffa, Stall keeper at local market, Kandy

Man carrying goods at local market, Kandy

Man carrying goods at local market, Kandy

Rukshana making purchases at fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Rukshana making purchases at fruit & vege stall at local market, Kandy

Vegetable stall owner selling us veges for lunch at local market, Kandy

Vegetable stall owner selling us veges for lunch at local market, Kandy

Chickens for our lunch at local market, Kandy

Chickens for our lunch at local market, Kandy

Coconuts at local market, Kandy

Coconuts at local market, Kandy

Chicken stall owner preparing chickens for our lunch, local market, Kandy

Chicken stall owner preparing chickens for our lunch, local market, Kandy

Having collected our culinary goodies we then drove up a steep and narrow road to Rukshana’s home where the task was to use the purchased provisions to prepare a Sri Lankan feast. Rukshana’s house was at the top of a narrow concrete path and this happens to be the only access she has from the road below. This means that all provisions such as building materials, furniture, appliances, food, etc.. have to be carried up a 120 m stepped pathway. 

Their house is built from mud bricks and nearby there is a nicely appointed and furnished tree house that is used as a B&B unit. 

Tree house at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Tree house at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Steps to Rukshana's house, Kandy

Steps to Rukshana's house, Kandy

The preparation of the meal was supervised by Rukshana with us as her assistants plus four other women employed by Rukshana to do various tasks.

Group preparing lunch at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group preparing lunch at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group preparing lunch at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group preparing lunch at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Jak splitting coconut at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Jak splitting coconut at Rukshana's house, Kandy

The meal was a sheer delight and we all felt that it was such a privilege to experience this culinary exercise and to enjoy a truly delectable meal within the privacy of a Sri Lankan’s home. 

Lunch at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Lunch at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group at Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group with bus outside Rukshana's house, Kandy

Group with bus outside Rukshana's house, Kandy

After the luncheon some of us then went to the Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens. This 150 ha garden was first mooted in 1747 but it was under the guidance of Sir Joseph Banks that the gardens were finally established after having been originally developed on Slave Island.

We spent a good deal of time in the orchid house which had a magnificent display in flower. The most prominent species being vandas, dendrobia and peristreria.

Orchids, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchids, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchids, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchids, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchids, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchids, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchid, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchid, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchid, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Orchid, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Chocolate orchid, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Chocolate orchid, Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

The peristeria elata or Holy Ghost orchid was in flower and is easily recognised by its beautiful waxy cup shaped flowers and its huge pseudobulbs. It is the national flower of Panama. 

Peristeria elata (Holy Ghost orchid), Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Peristeria elata (Holy Ghost orchid), Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

We learnt that there are about 188 orchid species in Sri Lanka and 110 of these occur in the Kandy region.

We strolled around the extensive gardens marvelling at the beautifully presented plants and trees within lovely lawns and ponds. 

Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

We encountered a group of delightful 16 year old school children keen to practise their English with us. We chatted with them and took lots of photos with them particularly wanting ‘selfies’.

School children at Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

School children at Peradeniya Royal Botanical Gardens, Kandy

We then returned to our riverside accommodation and after some pre-dinner drinks we had dinner and prepared for an early night after a fun filled day.

Bridge over Mahaweli River, Kandy

Bridge over Mahaweli River, Kandy

Thotupola Residence (our home-stay), Kandy

Thotupola Residence (our home-stay), Kandy

Drinks at Thotupola Residence (our home-stay), Kandy

Drinks at Thotupola Residence (our home-stay), Kandy

Dinner at Thotupola Residence (our home-stay), Kandy

Dinner at Thotupola Residence (our home-stay), Kandy

Tomorrow we do the scenic train trip from Kandy to Nanu Oya and then travel by bus to Nuwara Eliya where we’ll spend the next three days.

DAY 8: Saturday June 8th 2019 KANDY – NUWARA ELIYA

We left our home-stay accommodation having offered our hosts gratitude for their friendly service and our best wishes for improved tourist numbers. They like many others in the tourist industry had been affected by significant numbers of cancellations, post Easter. 

Our private bus dropped us off at the Peradeniya Junction Railway Station and at around 09:20 our train to Nanu Oya arrived. The train was a quite old (blue) diesel electric train with about 12 carriages and locomotives at either end.

Waiting for the train at Peradeniya Junction Railway Station

Waiting for the train at Peradeniya Junction Railway Station

Our train arriving at Peradeniya Junction Railway Station

Our train arriving at Peradeniya Junction Railway Station

Although we were assigned first-class seats, we found that our dusty windows didn’t open and thus photography was going to be problematic. As a consequence, some of our group spent more time in the adjacent second-class carriage where the windows could be opened.

The train ride was sometimes bumpy and often jerky, particularly on stopping and starting at the stations dotted along the way. However, the trip was very pleasurable because of the scenery of the Hill Country through which we passed. 

There were steep hillsides, deep ravines and a number of small but attractive waterfalls beside the railway line. The work in building this railway line must have been phenomenal as indicated by the numerous deep rock cuttings and tunnels. 

The one scene that best epitomises the train trip is the sight of never ending tea plantations covering the landscape with many of the groves on precipitously steep and terraced hillsides.

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

Apart from tea plantations there were extensive pine and eucalypt forests particularly in the more mountainous regions. Along the verge of the railway line were vegetable gardens growing leeks and cabbages together with other horticultural produce. 

Eucalypt plantation viewed from train en route to Nanu Oya

Eucalypt plantation viewed from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

The train gained altitude climbing eventually to 1600 m and the cooler climate became very noticeable.

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

View from train en route to Nanu Oya

We left the train at Nanu Oya station and our bus was waiting ready to take us to Nuwara Eliya which is to be our centre of activities for the next three days.

Nuwara Eliya is often referred to as Sri Lanka’s “Little England” being set in a wooded valley beneath the 2524 m Mt. Pedro which is the highest peak in the country. Offering a cooler climate has resulted in Nuwara Eliya becoming a very popular holiday destination for Sri Lankans.

Before heading for our hotel we had a luncheon stop at a restaurant overlooking Lake Gregory which is a popular spot for boating and fishing enthusiasts. 

We then spent an hour at the Pedro Tea Estate that was established in 1885. A guided tour through their facilities was short and very brief on actual details. This was made even more disappointing as our guide’s speech was very difficult to understand. We did see processing equipment and were told that factory produces four types of black tea, handling about 2500 kg of tea per day. We had a brief walk through a section of their nearby plantation before departing for our accommodation at the Jetwing St. Andrews. 

Tea factory, Nuwara Eliya

Tea factory, Nuwara Eliya

Tea factory, Nuwara Eliya

Tea factory, Nuwara Eliya

Cup of tea at Pedro Estate

Cup of tea at Pedro Estate

Group at Pedro tea estate, Nuwara Eliya

Group at Pedro tea estate, Nuwara Eliya

Our hotel has an elegant Colonial-era feel about it as evidenced by the grand interior and colourful surrounding flower gardens. A full sized billiard table is a further hint of the British influence as is the nearby golf course.

Tomorrow we have to be on the bus at 05:30 as we’re doing a long walk and the weather here is more predictable in the mornings, hence the early start. With this in mind, an early night seemed appropriate after a day of mostly travel much of which was on the train through spectacular scenery.

DAY 9: Sunday June 9th 2019 NUWARA ELIYA

As the road up to Horton Plains National Park is quite narrow and has a number of tight switchback turns our Toyota ‘Coaster’ bus was deemed unsuitable and hence two smaller buses were organised for the trip. 

We left our hotel just on 05:30 and headed southwards in the pre-dawn light for about an hour. The first section took us through the outskirts of Nuwara Eliya where we could see numerous small market gardens and then with the rising sun we entered an area which is the region’s dairying centre. There were a number of large dairy herds grazing on lush pastures. The cows seemed to be mostly a guernsey cross and all looked very healthy. A milk processing factory was close by.

Dairy herd

Dairy herd

The road then started to climb and we entered an extensive area of eucalypt forest. At one particular high crest in the road we crossed the railway line at Pattipola Station which is the highest station in Sri Lanka. 

The road then became much narrower and significantly steeper with some very tight corners. Thank heavens our drivers were meticulously cautious because any misjudgement could easily have resulted in the vehicle plunging over the unguarded edge. 

At an elevation of just over 2000 m we entered the Horton Plains National Park which has a remarkable similarity with the Scottish Highlands with its windswept landscape and misty surroundings. A herd of Sambhur deer was sighted close to the road further enhancing the impression of Scotland. 

Sambhur deer, Horton Plains

Sambhur deer, Horton Plains

The park is named after Sir Robert Wilmot-Horton, the British governor of Ceylon from 1831 to 1837. It was formerly a wildlife sanctuary and then declared a national park in 1988, its area being 3160 hectares. 

This plateau is the highest in Sri Lanka with a terrain that is characterised by undulating grasslands, meandering streams, rocky outcrops, waterfalls and dense montane (cloud) forests. The scenery offers a close similarity to parts of Tasmania’s highlands with the small tarns, button-grass plains and misty forests.

Rhododendron, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Rhododendron, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Rhododendron flower, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Rhododendron flower, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Stream with rhododendron on the bank, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Stream with rhododendron on the bank, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Hypericum perforatum, Nature trail, Horton Plains

Hypericum perforatum, Nature trail, Horton Plains

Aristea ecklonii,, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Aristea ecklonii,, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Princess flower (Tibouchina urvilleana), Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Princess flower (Tibouchina urvilleana), Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Amongst the native flora seen, the rhododendrons were the most unexpected and the most colourful with the hillsides near the car park being dotted with many thousands of these red flowering shrubs. The park is also a popular bird-watching location and we saw several unidentified birds plus some whistling thrush and yellow-eared bulbuls. 

Our drivers, Horton Plains

Our drivers, Horton Plains

ohn, Janet, SInclair, Janet, Corinne & Jak at start of Bakers Fall & World's End circuit walk, Horton Plains

ohn, Janet, SInclair, Janet, Corinne & Jak at start of Bakers Fall & World's End circuit walk, Horton Plains

We followed the Loop Trail which covers a distance of about nine kilometres. Our first major stop was at Baker’s Falls. This 20 m high waterfall is reached by descending a steep concreted path through cloud forest to a viewing platform. As there hasn’t been a large amount of rainfall recently the cascade wasn’t dramatic but nonetheless it was beautiful in the early morning sunlight. The plateau receives monsoonal rain with an annual precipitation of over 5000 mm and the waterfall is at its best after heavy falls.

Baker's Falls, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Baker's Falls, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Group at Baker's Falls, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Group at Baker's Falls, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Stream, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Stream, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Group on Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Group on Nature Trail, Horton Plains

We then headed further south along the walking trail and within minutes the cloud dropped and we were in fog and light misty rain which meant that when we arrived at World’s End we could see no more than a few metres in front of us. The view we mist (pun intended) out on is an escarpment plunging 880 m into the lowlands below.

World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

The drizzle then eased a little but for much of the remaining walk we were in mist as we wandered through cloud forest with its canopy dominated by the umbrella shaped keena trees.

Mist near World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Mist near World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Endemic rat, Nature Trail

Endemic rat, Nature Trail

Mist at Little World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

Mist at Little World's End, Nature Trail, Horton Plains

As we neared the end of our walk we passed Little World’s End but it too was fogged out so we were unable to get any photos. Before heading back we finished our breakfast that the hotel had provided as a ‘take-away’ meal box for early morning travellers.

We returned to our mini-buses having spent about three and a half hours completing the loop. The second half of the walk was a little disappointing but it wasn’t the ‘end of the world’!

On the return journey our driver spotted a purple-faced langur in the eucalypts.

Purple-faced langur

Purple-faced langur

We arrived back at our St. Andrew’s Hotel at around mid-day and showered and had a generally relaxing afternoon which included making contact with family back in Australia.

DAY 10: Monday June 10th 2019 NUWARA ELIYA

This was designated a ‘free’ day to explore the local township and generally relax before we move on again tomorrow.

As the visit to the tea plantation on Saturday didn’t give us an opportunity to see the actual picking of the tea leaves, we decided to spend some time in a tea plantation watching the pickers at work. 

The plantation we visited was on a steep hillside and there were about a dozen women working each with an open ruck-sack used to hold the collected leaves. The picking is normally done in the earlier part of the day when the leaves are moist and fresher. 

Tea plantation, Nuwara Eliya

Tea plantation, Nuwara Eliya

Ladies picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

Ladies picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

Ladies picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

Ladies picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

The desired leaves are the new, pale green leaves that grow at the top of the bushes where pruning has occurred. The pickers grasp these upper fleshy leaves which typically have a bud between the top pair. The leaves are then thrown over the shoulder into the sack receptacle. A picker may earn about LKR 1000 a day (equivalent to AUD$8). There are occasionally flowers visible on some tea plants and these give testament to the fact that tea is a camellia plant.

Ladies picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

Ladies picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

Lady picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

Lady picking tea, Nuwara Eliya

The main road below the tea plantation was a winding road barely two lanes wide and yet fruit and vegetable markets were set up along the verge. Cars coming up the hill and around the tight corners had to be prepared to stop suddenly as the fruit market customers’ vehicles were partially blocking the road!

Roadside vegetable stall, Nuwara Eliya

Roadside vegetable stall, Nuwara Eliya

We then spent an hour wandering around the tourist section of Lake Gregory. The cool and wet climate here means that the lakeside gardens are typically English with extensive green lawns and flower beds having a profusion of marigolds, snapdragons, dahlias, pansies, asters, salvias and daisies.

Bearing in mind that we are approaching mid-summer (here in the Northern Hemisphere) the drizzly rain and cold temperature (15C) today are probably unusual even for this higher altitude town. 

Gardens at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Gardens at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Gardens at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Gardens at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Nuwara Eliya is a haven for wealthy holiday-makers from the big cities like Colombo and the lake caters for a range of aquatic activities such as motor and paddle boating, fishing and jet-skiing. Today most boats were tied up and little action was evident. The general standard of maintenance of the watercraft was minimal but it’s pleasing to see that life-jackets were mandatory for those who chose to venture out onto the lake in boats.

Tourist boats at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Tourist boats at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Tourist boats at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

Tourist boats at Lake Gregory, Nuwara Eliya

During a brief interlude back at our hotel, we heard that our friend David Smart has been included on this years Queen's Birthday honours list and will receive an Order of Australia for his service to both the community and to the medical profession. Congratulations Smarty!

In the early afternoon we spent and hour or two wandering through the Nuwara Eliya shopping area.

Shop, Nuwara Eliya

Shop, Nuwara Eliya

Cargill's (Ceylon) general store, Nuwara Eliya

Cargill's (Ceylon) general store, Nuwara Eliya

Australian produce in shop, Nuwara Eliya

Australian produce in shop, Nuwara Eliya

As the rain increased we sought shelter in the Post Office which is an impressive remnant of colonial times. The internal fittings and post boxes have been retained and much of the building has the atmosphere of a museum.

Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Letter box at Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Letter box at Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Letter box at Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

Letter box at Post Office, Nuwara Eliya

One of our intended destinations for the afternoon was the Governor’s former house which we’d been informed was now a pub. With a bit of luck and some rough directions we eventually found “The Nineteenth Hole” hotel just across the road from the Nuwara Golf Links.

We enjoyed beers and gin fizzes in the old-English bar with its leather sofas and beer barrel stools. The décor could well have been that of a traditional London pub with its extensive array of ‘top-shelf’ liquors, dark timber walls, brass paraphernalia and comfy atmosphere.

Bar, The 19th Hole Pub, Nuwara Eliya

Bar, The 19th Hole Pub, Nuwara Eliya

Corinne & Jak enjoying a Gin Fizz & a beer at The 19th Hole Pub, Nuwara Eliya

Corinne & Jak enjoying a Gin Fizz & a beer at The 19th Hole Pub, Nuwara Eliya

As the drizzle had now ceased, we strolled back to our St. Andrew’s Hotel to catch up on emails, laundry issues and diary records.

Tomorrow we have a four hour drive south to the Yala National Park where we’ll stay for three nights.

This stay in Nuwara Eliya has been rather special with our visit to the Horton Plains being an unexpected highlight and the sight of a near limitless area of tea plantations being mind boggling.

DAY 11: Tuesday June 11th 2019 NUWARA ELIYA – YALA NATIONAL PARK

We left Nuwara Eliya at 08:30 and commenced our 200 km trip south-eastwards with our mid-day destination being Yala on the coast.

The contrasts in climate and vegetation were pronounced. We departed from a mountainous region where the cool and wet weather was ideal for tea growing and vegetable farming and arrived at a coastal tropical region where rice growing, banana and coconut plantations were more the norm.

The first section of road on leaving Nuwara Eliya was a steep downhill winding road with spectacular valleys and rocky outcrops as we made our way from the plateau towards the coastal plain.

We had a brief stop at the Sriramajayam Hindu temple that was also home to a large number of macaque monkeys. At the gopuram or ceremonial gateway were burgundy coloured, tapered towers with numerous brightly coloured gold painted sculptures and intricate gargoyles depicting Hindu deity. The scene, with monkeys running everywhere was certainly intriguing and the intricacy of the sculpted gods and lions was impressive. As we were constrained by time we decided not to enter the inner section (kovil) of the temple. 

Sriramajayam Temple, Nuwara Eliya

Sriramajayam Temple, Nuwara Eliya

A little further down the long and winding road, near the township of Ella we came to the Ravana Falls. This impressive cascade down the side of the high rocky valley comprises four or five separate waterfalls with a combined drop of two hundred metres or so. One can only imagine the spectacle when the river is in full flow during the monsoon season. 

Ravana Falls, Ella

Ravana Falls, Ella

Ravana Falls, Ella

Ravana Falls, Ella

Rock outcrop, Ravana Falls, Ella

Rock outcrop, Ravana Falls, Ella

We continued on down the A2 highway to Pannegamuwa where we diverted to Tissamaharama and then on to Kirinda. For the last thirty kilometres we travelled just in from the coastline heading north-eastwards to Yala. 

At Yala we all transferred with our luggage to two safari adapted and quite senior Hilux vehicles for the final travel to our Ruhunu Safari Camp which will be our base for the next three nights.

Boarding our jeeps at Yala

Boarding our jeeps at Yala

View of the sea over salt ponds at turnoff to Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

View of the sea over salt ponds at turnoff to Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

The three kilometres of ‘track’ from the coast into the camp was definitely 4WD with some sections being deeply rutted and others involving crossing rocky ridges.

The camp is within the ‘buffer’ section of the Yala West (Ruhunu) National Park and comprises a central meeting/dining building plus nearby kitchen and ten safari tents spread out over a reasonably large area giving campers a sense of wilderness isolation. The tents are basic, comfortable and appropriate for the location, but not what one would call ‘glamping’!

Arriving at Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Arriving at Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Our safari tent, Yala Safari Camp

Our safari tent, Yala Safari Camp

After settling into our tent we then drove in the mid-afternoon to the main entrance of the Yala West (Ruhunu) National Park and were there joined by two local guides, one per vehicle. For the next three hours we covered a large distance on sandy, bumpy tracks observing and photographing wildlife. The Ruhunu National Park covers an area of 141 square kilometres and is divided into five blocks with only the two coastal blocks being open to visitors. The landscape is punctuated by rocky outcrops and the sprawling landscape varies from thorny scrub and open grasslands to dense jungles and coastal lagoons. 

One of the very common (small) birds seen during the afternoon was the little green bee-eater which is similar to, but not the same species as the African little bee-eater we know from Namibia and Botswana.

Little green bee-eater, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Little green bee-eater, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Little green bee-eaters, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Little green bee-eaters, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Little green bee-eaters, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Little green bee-eaters, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Our travel was at some points just over the dunes from the Indian Ocean and out to sea a light-house was visible on the horizon.

Ruhunu Yala National Park sign

Ruhunu Yala National Park sign

Lighthouse viewed from Ruhunu Yala National Park

Lighthouse viewed from Ruhunu Yala National Park

A herd of spotted deer was then encountered grazing on a grassy plain near a waterhole. The stags with their prominent antlers are easy prey if chased into the undergrowth by a leopard as stags’ antlers tend to catch in the scrubby and thorny acacias and impede their escape.

Spotted deer, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Spotted deer, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Spotted deer, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Spotted deer, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Peafowl are very common and the initial excitement of seeing peacocks with their magnificent plumage soon became rather humdrum! 

Peacock, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Peacock, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Peacock, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Peacock, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Peahen, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Peahen, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Wild pigs are frequently seen especially around waterholes and mud-sumps. These porcine creatures are not very attractive but they are certainly better looking than warthogs.

Wild pig, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Wild pig, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Water buffalo, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Water buffalo, Ruhunu Yala National Park

The majority of wildlife, not surprisingly was located close to waterholes. Water-buffalo, elephants and crocodiles being the three big and common attendees at the water’s edge or within the water.

Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Crocodile, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Crocodile, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Our high hope was to encounter a leopard and in the cooler late afternoon we did locate one, albeit for a brief period. By the time the jeep stopped and backed to the spot where we’d sen the leopard, it had moved further from the road and was barely visible. No photos of the leopard of any real value were obtained unfortunately.

The Sri Lankan leopard is a sub-species endemic to the island and the Ruhunu National Park is home to about 35 leopards.

The birds similarly seem to congregate near water and the common aquatic species seen included ibis, pigeons, storks, herons, egrets, stilts, spoonbills, thick-knees and lapwings. 

Malabar pied hornbill, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Malabar pied hornbill, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Orange-breasted green pigeon

Orange-breasted green pigeon

The other species of deer found in Sri Lanka is the Sambhur deer and we saw these somewhat rarer deer at close range as we had on the Horton Plains earlier in the week.

Sambhur deer, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sambhur deer, Ruhunu Yala National Park

The most colourful and photogenic birds of this park are in our opinion the bee-eaters, the kingfishers and the junglefowl.

Common kingfisher, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Common kingfisher, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Red-wattled lapwing, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Red-wattled lapwing, Ruhunu Yala National Park

The junglefowl is a handsome bird with the rooster having a red and yellow wattled head with body plumage being stripes of yellow, orange and navy blue. This endemic bird is the national bird of Sri Lanka.

A very large and marble coloured python crossed the road in front of us and forced a total halt in the traffic. It took about a minute for this two metre snake to cross the road; it was in no hurry!

We returned to camp at around 18:30 and had cold drinks before dinner which included a range of traditional and tasty Sri Lanka dishes although the curries were made ‘milder’ to suit our Australian palates.

Tomorrow we have a full day of safari travels with us departing camp at 06:00 so an early bedtime was needed after a full day of road and safari travel.

DAY 12: Wednesday June 12th 2019 YALA WEST (RUHUNU) NATIONAL PARK

Photos to follow later.

We were up and away by 06:00 with our group of nine distributed five and four in the two ‘jeeps’ that were actually old Toyotas.

Prior to reaching the park entrance we drove past a roadside area comprising twenty or so large evaporation ponds of area about one hectare each. Beside some of these ponds were long and high covered piles of salt. Saltwater from the nearby Indian Ocean is pumped into the ponds and solar energy does the rest!  

Having gone through the formalities for entering the park and collecting our guides (we had Samee in our jeep) we headed towards one of grassland areas and were fortunate enough to encounter three golden jackals that came towards us seemingly unperturbed by our presence. The group comprised a male with the bushy tail, a female and a pup. The jackals crossed the road in front of us and then disappeared into the bushes.

Golden jackal, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Golden jackal, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Hare, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Hare, Ruhunu Yala National Park

In the early morning light we saw a hare in the undergrowth. These are a native rodent and are identified by their normal rabbit colour plus a black neck collar.

Doves and pigeons are common sightings but the beautiful orange breasted green pigeon is a much rarer finding so we were fortunate in this regard to see a pair.

Rose-ringed parakeet, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Rose-ringed parakeet, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Oriental magpie robin, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Oriental magpie robin, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Brahminy kite, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Brahminy kite, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Red-vented bulbul, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Red-vented bulbul, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Many of the morning’s sightings were merely repeats of yesterday’s although some ‘new’ bird sightings were made. These included rose-ringed parakeets, white rumped shamas, Malabar pied hornbills, crested hawk eagles and the less common white-throated kingfisher. 

Common kingfisher, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Common kingfisher, Ruhunu Yala National Park

White-throated kingfisher, Ruhunu Yala National Park

White-throated kingfisher, Ruhunu Yala National Park

We had a breakfast break under a shady tree with a large monitor lizard as nearby company.

An interesting fact is that some of the larger trees such as the satinwood lose their leaves during summer to conserve moisture. We were assured that these large seemingly ‘dead’ trees will be in full foliage by October/November.

Satinwood (deciduous) trees, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Satinwood (deciduous) trees, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Lunch was, by necessity in the shade of large (non-deciduous) trees as the temperature was climbing into the mid 30s. From 12:00 to 14:00 we had two hours relaxing and eating lunch in the shade. Whilst resting, a large bull elephant walked into our picnic area and then retreated as did a bull water-buffalo. Both these visitors are potentially dangerous and unpredictable and thus our guides gave appropriate warnings to avoid approaching them. 

Corinne, Janet, Sinclair & Tony in jeep, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Corinne, Janet, Sinclair & Tony in jeep, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Picnic lunch, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Picnic lunch, Ruhunu Yala National Park

The wildlife activity in the heat of the day wanes until dusk approaches and the temperature drops.

We had a quiet two hours watching elephants feeding and then encountered a family of black-faced langurs (monkeys) resting in the branches of a roadside tree. The adults seemed peaceful but the youngsters were entertaining themselves (and us) with games such as climbing, running, leaping and tumbling. It was an acrobatic performance of high standard.

Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park

1244 - Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park, Yala, Sri Lanka, 12 Jun 2019-2.jpg
Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Elephant, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Oriental magpie robin, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Oriental magpie robin, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Blythe's pippit, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Blythe's pippit, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Black-faced langurs, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Black-faced langurs, Ruhunu Yala National Park

As there’d yet to be sightings of bears or leopards this day, we were thinking that the safari was going to come to a somewhat disappointing end. Then out of the blue came a message from one of the other guides that a bear had been located.

Without us being shaken to pieces we drove as quickly as the road would allow to the designated site where the sloth bear had been seen. Two other jeeps were already at the site but we had a parking space allowing us to see the bear high up on a rocky platform about 50 m from the road. He appeared to be asleep. There are only eight known sloth bears in the whole 141 square kilometre national park so we were definitely very fortunate on this occasion.

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bears are native to India and Sri Lanka only. The male bears lead a solitary existence except during the breeding season. They are highly territorial making their location easier than many other animals such as leopards that may move large distances over time. 

This adult male sloth bear was about 80 kg and had a pointed nose and black fur. His position on the rock platform was such that he had his rear end sitting in water and his head lying on his front legs. His massive claws were menacing and can be used for digging into termites’ nests or shredding the flesh of any potential predator.

He lay still for about ten minutes and then got up to scratch his back using a protruding rock edge to good effect.

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

He then waddled down the rock towards us and bypassed the cars on his way to a palu tree just up the road. This tree provides a favoured meal and there were hundreds of tiny fruits on the road which he ‘hoovered’ up in prompt fashion.

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Sloth bear, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Having watched this awesome creature for nearly an hour we were compelled to move on. Our guide informed us that the sloth bear would probably spend the night perched high up in this palu tree or otherwise in a Ceylon ironwood tree.

In the wet season the termites’ nests become soft and more easily pulled apart giving the sloth bears access to another of their favoured repasts.

On our way back to camp we managed to get photos of a jungle fowl and another very large python. We thanked Samee for a great day and let him know how grateful we were to have access to his wildlife knowledge. 

Jungle fowl, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Jungle fowl, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Crocodile, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Crocodile, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Python, Ruhunu Yala National Park

Python, Ruhunu Yala National Park

The twelve hour safari finished on a high note with the rare sloth bear sighting and back at camp we had a celebratory glass of Australian wine with our dinner (first wine for nearly two weeks!)

Tomorrow is a rest day with no commitments at all so sleeping in till 07:00 or even after will be a luxury.

[As a footnote it should be mentioned that for today’s safari there were estimated to be about eight or ten jeeps in the park for the whole day. We were told that at the height of the tourist season pre the bombings, there were over 400 jeeps per day but some were forced to wait up to two hours before admission.]

DAY 13: Thursday June 13th 2019 YALA WEST (RUHUNU) NATIONAL PARK

This was to be a day with no formal activities planned. It consequently gave everyone a chance to catch up on mundane tasks such as washing, responding to emails and writing up diaries as well as resting, reading, chatting and/or investigating our camp surrounds.

A late breakfast being at 08:00 was followed for us by a concerted effort to label photos from previous days and to integrate these into our blog. All was going well until the Wi-Fi failed to respond and we decided that things could subsequently wait until we are nearer ‘civilisation’.

Our group at breakfast, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Our group at breakfast, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Our safari tent, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Our safari tent, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Jak catching up on the blog in our safari tent, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Jak catching up on the blog in our safari tent, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

After a relaxing morning in ever increasingly hot conditions, cold beers at lunchtime seemed eminently appropriate and were followed by napping in our somewhat cooler tents. We were conscious of Noel Coward’s advice that “Mad dogs and Englishmen go out in the midday sun”.

Thorny acacia flower, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Thorny acacia flower, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Thorny acacia flower, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Thorny acacia flower, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp grounds

Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp grounds

With somewhat cooler conditions now prevailing, at 16:00 some of us went on a bird photography trek with two of the camp staff. We wandered around the tracks near the campsite and managed to get good photos of some of the local birds including the golden oriel and the imperial pigeon.

Golden oriel, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Golden oriel, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Golden oriel, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Golden oriel, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Common myna, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Common myna, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Imperial pigeons, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Imperial pigeons, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

The hot windy conditions meant that our washing dried very quickly and by evening we were pleased to have caught up on as many tasks as could be achieved considering our isolated location.

Being our last night in camp, the staff very kindly prepared a delicious barbecue meal. We really appreciated the effort they made for us and everyone enjoyed the meal.

Staff cooking barbecue dinner, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Staff cooking barbecue dinner, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Barbecue dinner, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Barbecue dinner, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Sujith, barbecue dinner, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Sujith, barbecue dinner, Ruhunu Yala Safari Camp

Tomorrow we have a 05:15 start with an early morning safari to another park area famous for its bird diversity. Later in the morning we head westwards to Galle and beyond.

DAY 14: Friday June 14th 2019 YALA NATIONAL PARK – HIKKADUWA

Photos to follow later.

We had a super early start with a coffee and snack at 05:15 and in the jeeps at 05:30. The location for our morning’s safari was at the 3000 hectare Bundala National Park, some 40 km south-west of our camp at Yala.

The early morning drive was frequently impeded by severe speed bumps in the road and many dogs that seem to congregate and sleep on the road.

The road passed through several small villages with the coastal land being mainly rice paddies or coconut groves.

After an hour we arrived at the Bundala National Park’s entrance and were joined by local guides who in our case was Isuru. 

The principal reason for visiting this park is for the aquatic birdlife and we very soon found that to be justifiable.

The path we followed was across a hard sand perimeter of a lagoon which had many bird species present and active in the soft early light; it was now nearly 06:30.

Lesser whistling duck with ducklings, Bundala National Park

Lesser whistling duck with ducklings, Bundala National Park

Pheasant-tailed jacana, Bundala National Park

Pheasant-tailed jacana, Bundala National Park

The sound of the lesser whistling (or Siberian) ducks was a delight and then to see at close range pheasant tailed jacanas was very special. We had encountered two other species of jacanas recently in Namibia but these Sri Lankan jacanas are quite different and equally attractive.

Purple swamphen, Bundala National Park

Purple swamphen, Bundala National Park

Glossy ibis, Bundala National Park

Glossy ibis, Bundala National Park

Ashy woodswallow, Bundala National Park

Ashy woodswallow, Bundala National Park

Tricoloured munia, Bundala National Park

Tricoloured munia, Bundala National Park

Indian stone curlew, Bundala National Park

Indian stone curlew, Bundala National Park

Rose-ringed parakeet, Bundala National Park

Rose-ringed parakeet, Bundala National Park

There weren’t many ‘new’ species sighted but the proliferation of birdlife was cause for joy. Amongst the species that we hadn’t previously sighted here were purple swamphens, glossy (all black) ibises, ashy wood-swallows, tricoloured munias, Indian stone-curlews and rose-ringed parakeets.

Little plover, Bundala National Park

Little plover, Bundala National Park

Yellow-wattled lapwing, Bundala National Park

Yellow-wattled lapwing, Bundala National Park

Amongst the less frequently encountered birds that we saw were purple herons, pipits, collared doves and little plovers. These plovers look very much like our Tasmanian dotterels and the lapwings here look very much like our Tasmanian plovers! 

A little later in the morning we ventured into another section of the park and came across a pond about the size of a tennis court and in this small area there was bird activity aplenty. Amongst the herons, egrets, spoonbills, ibises and stilts were eight painted storks desperately fishing in the shallow waters.

Pond, Bundala National Park

Pond, Bundala National Park

These beautiful tall birds with their red legs, yellow bills, orange faces and pink tail feathers were scurrying around with beaks open just below the water surface and every now and then one would lift its head in triumph with a fish now firmly held in its beak. Some of the fish caught were big enough for the birds to have great difficulty swallowing and when this did eventually occur, we could see the large bulge passing down the bird’s throat.

Painted stork, Bundala National Park

Painted stork, Bundala National Park

Painted stork with fish, Bundala National Park

Painted stork with fish, Bundala National Park

Intermediate egret & Painted stork with fish, Bundala National Park

Intermediate egret & Painted stork with fish, Bundala National Park

Intermediate egret & Painted stork with fish, Bundala National Park

Intermediate egret & Painted stork with fish, Bundala National Park

We followed along the coastline and became increasingly aware of a dreadful infestation of a prickly pear type of cactus that has caused terrible damage to the native ecology. This pest is so difficult to eradicate as even tiny traces of the cactus can lead to new plants regenerating. 

Two species of monkeys were seen during the morning, namely Tufted gray (Black faced) langurs and Toque macaques. Male macaques have red faces while the females have white faces.

Tufted gray (Black-faced) langur, Bundala National Park

Tufted gray (Black-faced) langur, Bundala National Park

Toque macaque (red faced male), Bundala National Park

Toque macaque (red faced male), Bundala National Park

Toque macaque, Bundala National Park

Toque macaque, Bundala National Park

At the conclusion of the morning’s activity we drove up onto a headland overlooking the Indian Ocean. There was a big swell rolling in and with the waves busting against the rocks below us, the thought of a quick paddle in the sea was utterly out of the question.

Fishermen’s camp on the coast, Bundala National Park

Fishermen’s camp on the coast, Bundala National Park

Coast, Bundala National Park

Coast, Bundala National Park

On our return trip to our Yala campsite we managed to get photos of two mongooses or should it be mongeese?

Mongoose, Bundala National Park

Mongoose, Bundala National Park

It was now 11:00 and we had brunch and said farewell to our camp hosts who had been so friendly and obliging during our three day stay. We were sad to hear them say that they have no further bookings for visitors for June or July due to the catastrophic events at Easter time.

We then rejoined our bus for the drive to Hikkaduwa where we’ll stay for the next two nights.

The four hour drive in dense traffic followed the coastline westwards passing through nearly continuous townships and the associated bustle of human activity and population overload. 

We passed through Galle which we will visit tomorrow and then commenced a more northerly route up the coast to Hikkaduwa.

Before arriving at our hotel we visited a moonstone ‘mine’ for an hour. The area around Hikkaduwa is famous for its precious and semi-precious gemstones and moonstones (opalescent quartzite) are favourites.

The place we visited was a typical tourist trap with the pretence of a working mine but really it was a retail outlet for gems including moonstones.

When we arrived a display was put on where miners brought rocks to the surface from underground and washed the quartzite to separate moonstones.

Moonstone mine, Hikkaduwa

Moonstone mine, Hikkaduwa

Moonstone mine, Hikkaduwa

Moonstone mine, Hikkaduwa

Antiquated cutting and polishing equipment was then operated for our entertainment and then we were ushered into the only ‘real’ part of the operation, namely the sales showroom. As soon as we entered the sales area the charade of mining, cutting, polishing etc ceased and the workers then awaited the next lot of tourists to arrive! 

In the sales area was a vast array of gems, most of which one supposes, had nothing whatsoever to do with this mine’s production or its personnel.

The goods on display varied from reasonably cheap stones to expensive mounted blue moonstones. After lots of haggling and decision making, a number of purchases were finally made.

We eventually arrived at our Hikka Tranz by Cinnamon hotel where security checks of bags was protracted and thorough. We all have ‘hospital type’ wrist ID tags to wear for the duration of our stay! 

What a contrast! We’ve just had three days in camp with only ten tents where we were the only guests to this huge hotel with 436 rooms with hundreds of guests.

Our room is on the fourth floor overlooking the Indian Ocean which is spectacular but subject to a large swell and windy conditions.

Tomorrow we explore Galle Fort and then relax by the swimming pool at this plush hotel.

DAY 15: Saturday June 15th 2019 HIKKADUWA & GALLE

It was a shock to arrive at the breakfast area at 08:30 and find it crammed with hundreds of guests. Apparently there is a conference being held at this hotel over the weekend and there are about 140 delegates in addition to the usual guests.

View from our room at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

View from our room at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

At 09:30 we went in our bus back to Galle, about 15 km further down the coast. The roadway was busy practically the whole way with extensive shops and open market areas next to the road. For most of the way the ocean was visible but nowhere did it seem calm enough for bathing let alone clear enough for diving.

Our visit to Galle was to visit the Galle Fort which forms the centrepiece of this sprawling town. The extensive colonial-era fortifications within the fort’s walls are now classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. 

Our first sight of the fort was the imposing fortress’ stone wall. Being over a metre thick, the wall protected the inner ‘Dutch quarter’ from the disastrous 2004 twenty metre high tsunami whereas much of the surrounding Galle city was badly damaged. 

The history of this area is most interesting as Ceylon was a key stop-over point on the route from South Africa and the Middle East to the Dutch East Indies and the Orient, particularly in times when spices, tea, opium and silk were desired European commodities. 

Galle’s harbour had been attracting traders, sailors and explorers to the island for centuries before the Portuguese built the original fort on the promontory here in 1589. The Dutch seized the port in 1640 and extended the fortifications that exist to this day. In 1796 Galle was handed over to the British who further modified the fort.  

Colombo eventually became a more accessible and important port so the influence of the Galle fort waned.

Our first stop was at the Dutch Reformed Church which was originally constructed in 1775 by Commander Casparus de Jong. Apparently this site was once a former Portuguese convent. The cruciform architecture and vaulted ceiling make for an imposing internal view but the more striking features of the church are the ornate tombstones laid into the floor and adorning the walls. Some of the tombstones have inscribed a skull and crossbones near the person’s name together with an image of a sand (egg) timer. These symbols infer that the interred individual died prematurely with malaria often being the cause.  

Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Organ, Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Organ, Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Symbol of shortened life, Dutch Reform Church, Galle

Symbol of shortened life, Dutch Reform Church, Galle

We then walked along the ramparts past the Point Utrecht Bastion where the main feature is a lighthouse dating from 1938. 

Lighthouse, Galle Fort

Lighthouse, Galle Fort

Mosque, Galle Fort, Galle

Mosque, Galle Fort, Galle

The majority of the population now living within the fort are Muslim and the Meeran Jumma Mosque we walked past is a large white building closely resembling a Christian church. Closer inspection enabled us to see the crescent and Arabic script that confirmed the true function.

Galle Fort

Galle Fort

When a brief sun-shower occurred we were at Flag Rock, the southernmost end of the fort. The high walls are constructed from rocks bearing fossilised shells and coral. From these walls, apparently daring free-style divers perform frighteningly high dives into the sea below. 

Rock wall, Galle Fort

Rock wall, Galle Fort

Galle Fort

Galle Fort

Ocean from Galle Fort

Ocean from Galle Fort

Monks taking selfies at Galle Fort

Monks taking selfies at Galle Fort

We then moved onto the northern most section of the ramparts where there is a prominent landmark, namely a clock tower. This tower was constructed in 1882 on a site where a Dutch belfry once stood. 

Clock Tower, Galle Fort

Clock Tower, Galle Fort

Corinne & Jak at Clock Tower, Galle Fort

Corinne & Jak at Clock Tower, Galle Fort

View across harbour from Galle Fort

View across harbour from Galle Fort

On the grass area nearby were sports grounds with people playing tennis and cricket. We watched a group of young boys of age approximately twelve having a practice batting, bowling and catching session under the careful tutelage of their coach. These kids were all very capable young cricketers and may well be future test cricketers. The Sri Lankans are enthralled with cricket and when they find we’re from Australia there are excited comments of ‘Ricky Ponting, Allan Border, Glenn Mc Grath, etc…’.

Test Cricket ground viewed from Galle Fort, Galle

Test Cricket ground viewed from Galle Fort, Galle

Cricket coaching, Galle Fort

Cricket coaching, Galle Fort

Mask shop, Galle

Mask shop, Galle

After returning to our hotel we spent the afternoon relaxing, reading and wandering around the gardens and beachfront of the hotel.

Hibiscus at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Hibiscus at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Frangipani at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Frangipani at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Beach at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Beach at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Beach at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Beach at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

PADI Dive Center at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

PADI Dive Center at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Hikka Tranz Hotel (our room on top right hand end), Hikkaduwa

Hikka Tranz Hotel (our room on top right hand end), Hikkaduwa

Of particular interest was a small building near the beach labelled “Five star PADI dive Centre”. On closer inspection we found a sign on the door indicating “Dive shop closed until October”. We were hardly surprised by this extended closure as apparently the sea conditions are only suitable for diving on the upper and mid-east coast at this time of the year. 

Hikka Tranz Hotel (our room on top right hand end), Hikkaduwa

Hikka Tranz Hotel (our room on top right hand end), Hikkaduwa

Sunset at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Sunset at Hikka Tranz Hotel, Hikkaduwa

Tomorrow we head north past Colombo to Negombo for our final two days of this Sri Lankan adventure.

DAY 16: Sunday June 16th 2019 HIKKADUWA - NEGOMBO

This particular day happened to be a special Buddhist celebration day for the full moon and many of the shops were closed. The traffic was much lighter and a good deal less chaotic than might have been expected for our trip along the south west coast of Sri Lanka.

Our first stop was at the Bhamian Buddha Statue just north of Hikkaduwa. This 24 m tall statue of Buddha was built to commemorate the terrible loss of life that occurred as a consequence of the tsunami that hit the coast of Sri Lanka on December 26th2004. This is the biggest natural disaster in the recorded history of Asia and the deadliest tsunami ever, killing an estimated 230 000 people across fourteen countries with around 37 000 deaths in Sri Lanka.

Tsunami memorial near Hikkaduwa

Tsunami memorial near Hikkaduwa

Tsunami memorial near Hikkaduwa

Tsunami memorial near Hikkaduwa

Tsunami memorial near Hikkaduwa

Tsunami memorial near Hikkaduwa

It began when a 9.1 magnitude earthquake struck off the northern coast of Sumatra.  The height of the Buddha statue here on the coast corresponds to the height of the wave that passed through this area and the huge number of deaths is accountable in that there is no high ground for seeking refuge in this coastal zone. 

The village towns in this area suffered as much as 98% destruction as this killer wave passed. The tsunami is also responsible for having caused the greatest tragedy in the world’s rail history. All 1700 people on board a passenger train died when this gigantic wall of water submerged the train for an estimated ten minutes.

Despite this horrific event there is little evidence today of the destruction that occurred in December 2004.

A number of other tsunami memorials were dotted along the coastline seen on our way north.

This revelation and the enormity of the Boxing Day event needed some time for us to contemplate and made us even more conscious of the other disasters that these peace loving people have endured over the past forty years.

We continued on our journey northwards and then stopped at Kosgoda to view a turtle research and conservation operation.

The adjacent kilometre or so of beach and associated dunes is a nesting ground for green turtles and an average of two females per night come ashore to lay their 90 or more eggs. Many of the eggs are retrieved from the sand dunes and stored in a secure and labelled sand area at the research facility. The temperature of the sand determines the gender of the hatchlings which appear on the surface after 48 days normally. 

Beach at Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Beach at Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Turtle hatchery, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Turtle hatchery, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

After hatching, the baby turtles are kept for three or four days before being released into the ocean, usually at dusk to minimise bird predation. This delay in return to the ocean is to ensure that the umbilical has healed over making the turtles less prone to fish attack.

Baby turtle still with ambilical cord, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Baby turtle still with ambilical cord, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Baby turtle, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Baby turtle, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Baby turtles, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

Baby turtles, Sea Turtle Research & Conservation Center, Kosgoda

In the facility there were hundreds of tiny turtles at the one, two and three day stages post hatching, with each day’s stage in separate tanks.

Any blind or deformed baby turtles are retained and not released. They are fed on mashed fish, sponge and algae.

Several adult turtles with missing flippers or other physical issues were visible in other nearby tanks. Some of these unfortunate turtles had been injured through entanglement in nets, ingesting fish-hooks, choking on plastic rubbish or by being hit by motor-boat propellers.

Of particular interest were three or four very rare albino green turtles. These reptiles are not released as their white colour makes them highly visible and offers them little protection from predators. 

This turtle conservation project commenced in 1978 and has since been sponsored by the Victor Hasselblad Foundation from Germany. Since its inception, there have been over 3.5 million baby turtles released back to the ocean.

The remaining part of our northern journey was mostly on the four lane freeway, partially bypassing Colombo and eventually arriving at our final Sri Lankan destination, the Negombo Jetwing Blue Hotel.

Drinks in our room at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo

Drinks in our room at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo

Tomorrow we have a final get-together and dinner on a river-boat and then our group begins to progressively dissociate as we commence our homeward travels.

DAY 17: Monday June 17th 2019 NEGOMBO

This was to be our final full day in Sri Lanka and there were no formal group activities planned for the morning. The quiet start to the day allowed us to have an extended breakfast period without the need to keep an eye on the clock.  

Negombo was one of the first territories in Sri Lanka developed in the 16thcentury by the Portuguese and their missionaries converted many citizens to Catholicism. One of the prominent landmarks in the city is St. Mary’s Church. The city of Negombo became very significant under the Dutch due to its proximity to spice growing areas, its network of communication canals and the large ocean connected lagoon which served a harbour and safe haven for an extensive fishing fleet. Today, Negombo is a beachside holiday centre and tourist hub being located close to Sri Lanka’s Bandaranaike International Airport.  

After breakfast we went for a walk and checked out the expansive beach area in front of our hotel. There were very few people present and we soon discovered that the steepness of the beach-front means that the undertow makes it too dangerous for swimmers. Warning flags indicate the hazard. The beach was not very clean either with lots of plastic fragments and other litter spoiling the scene. The very humid conditions resulted in our camera lenses fogging up so few worthwhile photos were taken. 

Beach at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo, Sri Lanka

Beach at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo, Sri Lanka

Beach at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo, Sri Lanka

Beach at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo, Sri Lanka

Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo

Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo

Crow outside restaurant at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo

Crow outside restaurant at Jetwing Blue Hotel, Negombo

Across the road from the hotel were the expected tourist shops and we strolled down this street with shop owners keen for us to come inside to see their wares of jewellery, clothing, leather bags and souvenirs. Tuk-tuk drivers were similarly pressuring us to be passengers and were keen to take us to various sites including the local fish market which apparently is quite impressive. 

In the mid afternoon our group went on a sight-seeing trip in two small boats starting in one of Negombo’s canals. 

In the 15thcentury the Dutch expanded the waterways around Negombo to facilitate easier spice trading, especially for cinnamon which grew abundantly in the area. This extensive network of canals entailed 120 km of waterways extending south to Colombo and north to Puttalam. The canal we travelled down was only about 10 m wide and not much more than 1 m deep. Some of the bridges over the canal were so low that we had to stop and lower the shade canopy to get under.

Group in boat on Hamilton Canal

Group in boat on Hamilton Canal

This canal ended at the 17 km long Negombo Lagoon where the banks were lined with hundreds upon hundreds of old wooden fishing boats many of which looked anything but sea-worthy, in fact some had partially sunk and lay there rotting. The 10 m fishing boats go out to sea across a potentially treacherous sand-bar to the Indian Ocean and principally fish for tuna, shark, lobsters and squid. 

Fishing boat

Fishing boat

Fishing boat

Fishing boat

Dried fish being prepared for Negombo Fish Market

Dried fish being prepared for Negombo Fish Market

Ship wreck, Negombo Lagoon

Ship wreck, Negombo Lagoon

Fishing boat near Negombo Fish Market

Fishing boat near Negombo Fish Market

Fishing boat near Negombo Fish Market

Fishing boat near Negombo Fish Market

Smaller ‘dug-out’ boats with outriggers are numerous too and they fish within the lagoon mainly for prawns and crabs. Nets are used extensively!

Fishing boat in Negombo Lagoon

Fishing boat in Negombo Lagoon

Fishing village in Negombo Lagoon

Fishing village in Negombo Lagoon

Fisherman thowing net in Negombo Lagoon

Fisherman thowing net in Negombo Lagoon

Our little 5 m fibreglass boat was powered by a kerosene outboard motor with a sticking throttle cable and a troublesome gearbox. Nonetheless we had a pleasant journey around the lagoon finishing in the mangroves for a barbecue. 

John, Marlis, Diana & Janet on boat in Negombo Lagoon

John, Marlis, Diana & Janet on boat in Negombo Lagoon

John, Marlis, Diana & Janet on boat

John, Marlis, Diana & Janet on boat

We had to wade through very shallow but muddy and slippery water to a secluded spot amongst the mangroves where we enjoyed barbecued fish, prawns and assorted vegetables. It was quite a novel BBQ experience being surrounded by hundreds of crows awaiting any left over barbecue scraps. The boating operation we’d used was operated by the Fernando family where dad catches the fish, mum cooks the barbecue and their sons drive the boats.

Diana & Janet wading to secret babecue spot in lagoon

Diana & Janet wading to secret babecue spot in lagoon

Group at secret babecue spot in Negombo Lagoon

Group at secret babecue spot in Negombo Lagoon

Captain Fernando & Mama Fernando cooking at secret babecue spot in lagoon

Captain Fernando & Mama Fernando cooking at secret babecue spot in lagoon

Mama Fernando cooking at secret babecue spot in lagoon

Mama Fernando cooking at secret babecue spot in lagoon

Preparing meal at at secret babecue spot in lagoon

Preparing meal at at secret babecue spot in lagoon

Crows looking for scraps after babecue

Crows looking for scraps after babecue

Group walking through mangroves in Negombo Lagoon

Group walking through mangroves in Negombo Lagoon

We then headed back into the canal and returned to our hotel.

Map of Boat ride & barbecue in Hamilton Canal and Negombo Lagoon

Map of Boat ride & barbecue in Hamilton Canal and Negombo Lagoon

Four of our group leave for Australia and home this evening and the day finished with saying goodbyes to our wonderful friends and offering heartfelt gratitude to our guide, driver and assistant.

With a certain degree of sadness we leave Sri Lanka tomorrow at 12:15. Our short visit to this fascinating country has been a most enjoyable and enlightening experience and the people have been so friendly and very welcoming. 

In the three weeks prior to arriving in Sri Lanka we had been given quite forceful advice suggesting that we should reconsider and then cancel our travel plans.

Nearer to departure date we were hearing that the intense level of security was establishing a more stable and safe travelling situation so we decided to come to Sri Lanka.

Our travels have revealed that things have certainly improved and that most Sri Lankans we’ve spoken to are now desperately concerned for the situation to return to normal as the major industry, tourism has suffered terribly.